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La Canicule


People move very, very slowly in Paris right now. With the temperature in the upper 90's, so do we.

As the day went on yesterday, the heat felt even worse, radiating off the buildings and sidewalks. We set out early, walking down rue St. Dominique, and then up to the Seine, crossing over the Pont de l'Alma. Just a few blocks up Avenue President Wilson was a street market, where we bought a few things for lunch. There's a lovely woman there with a stand where she sells vegetables from her land. She gave us a taste of one of her tomatoes, which rival anything I've ever pulled out of the garden. OK, hers were better.

Back across the Seine, and we spent some time poking around the neighborhood, looking at menus outside restaurants, finding the other shops, looking at some wonderful old buildings. By this time, my linen sundress was feeling like a wet parka.

At the apartment we made a cool lunch, and of course I had to take a picture.

An airconditioned museum seemed a good plan, so we set off at around 3:00. People in the Metro did not look happy. At least we weren't under the broiling sun, but the damp, sticky heat felt awful. We had our Louvre tickets already, so just zipped past the line and right into the museum. We went upstairs to see my old friend Vermeer and the rest of his pals from the Low Countries; goggled at some of the yard sale items in the Decorative Arts galleries; admired the Indian jewelry in a special exhibit; and tried to estimate how hot it was right under the Pyramid. We'll come back when we return to Paris.

By this time it was 7:30, so we walked over to the Left Bank, and caught the number 69 bus back home.

We had made a dinner reservation at Le Florimond, right down the street. We weren't able to get a table on the terrace, but at least at 9:00 the heat inside wasn't too bad. It's a tiny restaurant with traditional food, and a very friendly atmosphere. All the food was excellent, but I think the standouts were a special entree of a little flan of spider crab served cool with grated vegetables and avacado sauce; a lamb dish with eggplant; and the creme brulee. Halfway through the meal, the wind started gusting, bringing leaves into the room and the people outside clutching their wine glasses. A few loud claps of thunder later, and the rain began. The poor waiter scurried around cheerfully complaining as he resettled some people out of the rain, handed out umbrellas to regulars, and readjusted the awning to try to keep the holdouts outside dry.

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We ran the two blocks home through the rain. But yes, the temperature had dropped a good 20 degrees.

Comments (2)


I'm enjoying your blog! Too bad about the heat, but better than the heat here in Boston, plus no worries about cement tiles falling on your head. LOL. The picture of the wine and market foods is gorgeous! Keep having a wonderful time!


Hi, Amy! Leave some strings for me around La Vieille du Temple or des Rosiers to discover...

Have a great time.

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