We followed Walk 18 backwards in our "Great Walks in Barcelona" book, up through part of the Eixample and into the Gracia neighborhood. Loved all these buildings along Carrer Gran de Gracia, which looked like a prosperous city neighborhood with many shops and people strolling.
This part of Gracia felt like a "regular" neighborhood, not a tourist in sight. And there were many little passeges between the big avenues, and we also passed two covered markets, unfortunately closed on Sunday.
We happened into a large group of people enthusiastically swing dancing in Placa de la Virreina, very cool. We stopped into a cafe for a light lunch of tasty sandwiches and beer in one of the cafes in the Placa.
We walked a bit further, and found Casa Vincens, one of Gaudi's first residential commissions, built for a tile manufacturer.
Took the subway home. Larry and I went out for an early evening walk through Parc de la Ciutadella, which was full of people strolling, using the playgrounds, visiting the zoo, enjoying being with their families on a nice Sunday.
Home to finish some shopping (in the wonderful spice store for more saffron and smoked paprika, and some chocolates) and to begin packing. Sad.
For dinner, the restaurants in the neighborhood were packed, so we went a block further past the end of Passeo del Born to some new places that opened across from where the old Born market is being turned into a museum. Landed at the very stylish Llamber, at Carrer de la Fusina, 5. The menu is modern Catalan tapas, lots of creative dishes meant for sharing. While some of the dishes were really good (salmon carpaccio with ginger ice cream and coriander; a special of a little crock of favas and pork stew; a sushi-like marinated bonito) a few others just didn't work for me. (fois gras with corn, with the foie served icy cold; pork rolled around an extremely sour cheese) It was also the most expensive meal of the trip. Still, an interesting option for when you want to move away from traditional tapas yet don't want to go up to the Eixample where most of the modern Catalan restaurants re located. http:
Goodbye, Barcelona. We'll be back.
Oh, if anyone might find it useful, here's the Google Map I put together of places we planned to go. https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=203608144991816870682.0004c72b4e628bb5ee955&msa=0