I’ve been lucky-in-lodging, as far as Venice goes, and have stayed at some places that I really and truly loved. Twice I stayed in a little apartment in campo San Giacomo dall’Orio and then for three trips in a row, I stayed at Locanda Orseolo.
When I started planning my 2010 trip, I decided it was time to move on to a new sestiere since I want to stay in all six of them eventually. I hadn’t stayed in Dorsoduro yet and during my 2008 trip, I had discovered a charming little Japanese tea room called Fujiyama, close to campo San Barnaba. I learned that it’s also a small B&B and after I read the rave reviews on Trip Advisor, I contacted them and was able to get a room in November. Love this place! The owners are wonderful and fun to talk to, the rooms are very comfortable, and there’s a lovely little garden in the back. I really enjoyed seeing all the art the owners have collected during their travels all over the world. I can't wait to stay there again.
And this neighborhood is great with lots of very good restaurants; it’s fun to walk around the campo and down Calle Lunga San Barnaba, check out the menus in the windows, and then decide where to eat. That might not work in high season but in November, I never had trouble getting a table without a reservation.
Here are a few scenes from the neighborhood~
There are a couple of Internet points nearby - one inside the toy store in the photo below and another one called Officina that's on the calle leading down to the Ca' Rezzonico vaporetto stop. Both are great places and not too expensive.
The famous San Barnaba vegetable market~
The artichoke soup at this place was incredible...one of my favorite things I had on this trip.
Other restaurants where I ate in this neighborhood were Oniga, Avogaria, Casin di Nobili, and La Bitta, and I enjoyed them all. Had a nice dinner at La Bitta with fellow Slow Traveler, Cubbies - this was the third time we've been in Venice at the same time, and it was wonderful to see her again.
Grom gelato in Campo San Barnaba; I went there once. It might shock some of you guys, but I'm not a huge gelato fan. I like it just fine but don't feel the need to eat it everyday when I'm in Italy. But the gelato I had at Grom was very good.
The breakfast room in Fujiyama (when the weather is nice, they serve breakfast in the garden but in November, it was too cold. This room is nice though, and the breakfast, coffee, and conversation were great).