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The Neighborhood

I’ve been lucky-in-lodging, as far as Venice goes, and have stayed at some places that I really and truly loved. Twice I stayed in a little apartment in campo San Giacomo dall’Orio and then for three trips in a row, I stayed at Locanda Orseolo.

When I started planning my 2010 trip, I decided it was time to move on to a new sestiere since I want to stay in all six of them eventually. I hadn’t stayed in Dorsoduro yet and during my 2008 trip, I had discovered a charming little Japanese tea room called Fujiyama, close to campo San Barnaba. I learned that it’s also a small B&B and after I read the rave reviews on Trip Advisor, I contacted them and was able to get a room in November. Love this place! The owners are wonderful and fun to talk to, the rooms are very comfortable, and there’s a lovely little garden in the back. I really enjoyed seeing all the art the owners have collected during their travels all over the world. I can't wait to stay there again.

And this neighborhood is great with lots of very good restaurants; it’s fun to walk around the campo and down Calle Lunga San Barnaba, check out the menus in the windows, and then decide where to eat. That might not work in high season but in November, I never had trouble getting a table without a reservation.

Here are a few scenes from the neighborhood~


There are a couple of Internet points nearby - one inside the toy store in the photo below and another one called Officina that's on the calle leading down to the Ca' Rezzonico vaporetto stop. Both are great places and not too expensive.

Internet point, San Barnaba

The famous San Barnaba vegetable market~

san barnaba

The artichoke soup at this place was incredible...one of my favorite things I had on this trip.

Other restaurants where I ate in this neighborhood were Oniga, Avogaria, Casin di Nobili, and La Bitta, and I enjoyed them all. Had a nice dinner at La Bitta with fellow Slow Traveler, Cubbies - this was the third time we've been in Venice at the same time, and it was wonderful to see her again.

pane vino e san daniele

Grom gelato in Campo San Barnaba; I went there once. It might shock some of you guys, but I'm not a huge gelato fan. I like it just fine but don't feel the need to eat it everyday when I'm in Italy. But the gelato I had at Grom was very good.


The breakfast room in Fujiyama (when the weather is nice, they serve breakfast in the garden but in November, it was too cold. This room is nice though, and the breakfast, coffee, and conversation were great).



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Comments (18)

Kathy (Trekcapri):

Hi Annie, I think I used that Internet cafe too. Isn't there a wine bar near there. Your beautiful photos really captures the pure magic of that wonderful neigborhood. Love the vegetable barge. That's so cool that you had two wonderful gtgs with cubbies.

Thanks so much for sharing your photos. Really brings back so many fond memories.

Hi Annie,
a nice neighborhood! I haven't stayed in the Dorsoduro yet. Hope I will one day : )
I've been to Grom 2 or 3 times, I love it! I was glad to see that it also exists in Paris. I shall go there this summer. That B&B seems very nice.
There is another internet point further down calle del Traghetto, past campo San Barnaba: OFFicina
Calle del Traghetto Ca Rezzonico
Dorsoduro 2799

Have a great day,


When I take a group in September I plan to eat at PaneVino. I didn't get chance to check it out in Feb. but reading the menu outside the prices seem reasonable. The hotel we use is on Rio delle Eremite just behind Fujiyama!


Annie, I'm very excited about staying at the Fujiyama in June and I think Girasoli feels the same way!!! I'm way behind on my trip planning, and I've hardly thought about restaurants in Venice yet so your suggestions are wonderful.

I'll be bringing my little notebook on the trip and your suggestions of Internet points where I can post to my blog are really helpful.

Kathy, yes there are a couple of wine bars close to the toy store/Internet point. That's funny that you went there too!

AnnaLivia, I really enjoyed staying in this part of Dorsoduro. I did use OFFicina a couple of times when the toy store was closed. That's cool that there's a Grom in Paris!

Andrew, I liked PaneVino a lot. Nice atmosphere, reasonable prices, interesting menu, and that artichoke soup is so memorable. So what kind of group are you taking in September and which hotel do you use? Have you ever had tea at Fujiyama?

Sandra, I'm so glad that you and Girasoli are going to stay at Fujiyama. You'll get to use the garden in June! The guys are so nice. When you walk down the calle away from Campo San Barnaba, there's a restaurant called Avogaria that offers a 'light lunch' menu (it's more expensive at night) - it's a good place with interesting food and very unique decor (wild bathrooms, very mod). I'm glad you're going to blog while you're there!


Hi Annie, We use Ca' San Trovaso and its sister Casa di Sara. Both cheap and cheerful and both on Fondamente di Romite (Eremite). This really is weird! I used to be a podiatrist till last week and always chatted about Venice to my patients. Two months ago a guy asked me if I would take him and his family to Venice. So we're going with six other folk, five of whom I've never met!

Andrew, that is so cool and sounds like a fun second career! Those folks are lucky to get to go with someone who knows and loves Venice so much.

So have you ever seen the church of Eremite open? I haven't. Would love to visit that one.


Nobody seems to be working much on the Eremite. In all the many years we've been going I've only seen the doors open once and it was a BOMB SITE.

Interesting! At least you got to peek in. Maybe they'll finish the restoration someday?!

You're talking about my new neighbourhood!

I went to see and hear the Joy Singers, in the Frari, last night. My gosh, what a wonderful experience.

Andrew, I'm going to have to try your plot to get back to Venice and show people around. Too cool, man. :-)

Yvonne, you are so lucky! When I saw them, it was in Santo Stefano; I bet the Frari was even better. They put on quite a show, don't they?

They had a show scheduled in Mestre in November but it was the night after I left; I probably would have trekked to Mestre to see them again if the timing had worked out.

Hope you're having fun!

Hi Annie,

Grom??!! That close to B&B Fujiyama?? OMG - I am in heaven!!! I LOVE Grom!!

Things have been very busy for me lately. Have not even had time to do any blog posts. Still need to do my state taxes! I am very grateful for this post. I have not done any planning other than the original bookings.

I figure that since this will be my 5th (think it is 5th) time to visit Venice, I will just mostly wander but really appreciate your tips. thanx :)

Oh, and doesn't the B&B Fujiyama have wifi? It says so on their webpage. I bought a little MacBook Air for my trip and hope to also blog while there. This time finally if the connection is fast enough, I will also be able to post photos while in Italy.

Hi Girasoli, yes Fujiyama had free wifi. I didn't use it but did see several people in the Tea Room with their laptops.

I'm glad that you're going to blog too - and with photos will be awesome!

I'm happy to find out about Fujiyama, I love the calle it's on and now have good reason to give it a try. I lived for a time in 1991 almost just around the corner (& over a bridge) on Fdmta di Borgo, which leads down to the Zattere past that little plaster shop & the seemingly never open Erboristeria. 20 yrs ago there used to be an art supply shop right around where Fujiyama now is with a window filled only with trays of brilliant pigments. It's no longer there, but the calle still seems magical to me. What a great place to stay!

Steven, it really was a great place to stay. I love both the B&B and the whole neighborhood a lot.

I hope you get a chance to visit the tea room!


For me, Dorsoduro is the best sestiere. Although the zone towards the Punta della Salute is very picturesque, it lacks vibrancy and that's why I adore Campo San Barnaba with the bars and osterie everyone has raved about. Next time try Osteria Do Farai on Calle del Capeler towards Ca' Foscari. Sefano is the head waiter and the seafood is great. Love this blog (almost as much as I love Venezia).

Christian, thanks for the tip about Do Farai. I saw it when I was there in November and will add it to my list for next time.

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This page contains a single entry from the blog posted on April 13, 2011 2:31 PM.

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