When leprosy invaded the Hawaiian islands in the early 1830s, faced with confusion and the belief that leprosy was a punishment from God, King Kamehameha V approved an act, in 1865, to prevent the spread of leprosy by a century-long policy of forced segregation for Hawaiians showing symptoms of the disease. Situated at the base of some of the highest cliffs in the world (dropping over 3300 feet into the Pacific Ocean), the remote Kalaupapa Peninsula on the island of Molokai seemed like the perfect place to isolate individuals afflicted with Hansen's disease (leprosy). And thus was the history of Kalaupapa as a leprosy settlement started.
In 1866, the first group of nine men and three women who were afflicted with leprosy were dropped off at the closest accessible point on the southeast of Kalaupapa Peninsula (Kalawao). Nine months later, the peninsula was home to 101 male and 41 female leprosy patients. The Board of Health's belief that these Hawaiians would be able to sustain themselves on island resources on their own, proved to be wrong as their disease progressed and they became too ill to be self-sufficient. News spread of bad conditions of the isolated and Hawaiians started hiding their sick loved ones so they won't be taken into isolation, where they were sure they would die. Others chose to go with their sick family member to help them survive.
Despite the Board of Health's efforts to improve conditions by building homes and a hospital and providing medical care, their attempts were underwhelmed by the continuous arrival of more and more leprosy patients. It wasn't until 1873, when Father Damien (Joseph De Veuster from Belgium) and was followed by others, arrived into Kalawoa and volunteered to take care of the people in isolation. Father Damien built houses, planted trees, constructed a water system, organized schools and choirs and offered hope to the settlement residents. For the living he provided medial and spiritual care, and he gave the dead a decent burial. His work attracted worldwide attention and resulted in the deeper awareness of Hansen's disease and the plight of its victims. Father Damien lived in Kalawao for 12 years until he died of Hansen's disease, which according to the National Historic Park website, was due to his lack of care about hygiene when dealing with the sick people he served.
The 20th century brought more patients into the settlement and the Board of Health began relocating patients from Kalawao on the windward side of the peninsula to the fishing village of Kalaupapa on the leeward side, where passengers and freights could be landed more easily by planes. The isolation law remained in effect until 1969, when it was finally removed. During its status as a leprosy colony, the Kalaupapa Peninsula torn almost 8000 people from their lives and families.
In 1980, the Kalaupapa Peninsula became a National Historical Park dedicated to preserve the memories and lessons of the past. And to this day, the Kalupapa Settlement is still home to several surviving Hansen's disease patients who chose not to leave even after they were allowed to.
We were able to visit the peninsula on a weekend trip to Molokai from Maui in March of 2008. There are three ways to get "down" to the peninsula: hike down, ride a mule down or fly down. Whatever way you choose to get to the settlement, you need to obtain a permit in advance from the Hawaii State Department of Health by calling 808-567-6924 or by calling Damien Tours at 808-567-6171. Every visitor, whether hiker, mule rider or plane passenger, must take the tour provided by the residents. If you call to reserve your tour first, the residents will arrange a permit for you so you won't have to call the health department.
We chose hiking down to the Kalaupapa Peninsula and although it was a difficult and strenuous hike, the views were well worth it. Three miles, 26 switchbacks and magnificent views of Molokai's views take you to Kalupapa Once we got to the peninsula, we boarded a school bus that took us around the settlement while a tour guide was reciting its history and significance, we also met some of the surviving patients that still reside there. Through it all, I kept thinking how could this magically beautiful spot on earth have witnessed such cruel and compelling history?
If you would like more details on the history of Kalupapa, check out the National Historical Park website.
Comments (12)
Very interesting post, Candi. I think I vaguely remember the news on this back in 1969.
Posted by Deborah | March 16, 2010 8:18 PM
Posted on March 16, 2010 20:18
Wow, Candi, what a sad, sad story for such a beautiful spot! Amazing to think that some patients are still living there.
Posted by sandrac | March 16, 2010 9:45 PM
Posted on March 16, 2010 21:45
Your title is perfect for your post.
Posted by maya | March 16, 2010 11:35 PM
Posted on March 16, 2010 23:35
I didn't know you hiked down to Kalaupapa. My old roommate's dad used to run the mule rides before he passed away. I was fortunate to be able to visit (riding the mule in and out) without having to make any of the arrangements in advance and was given the royal treatment since I was with my old roommate. I only wish I had a good camera back then. I really enjoyed my visit, although the mule ride was a little scary at a few points. Those mules go right to the edge to eat the leaves off of the bushes.
Posted by girasoli | March 17, 2010 5:54 AM
Posted on March 17, 2010 05:54
Thanks all.
girasoli,
I know what you mean about the mules being scary. I am a horse person, so I always tend to think if they don't trust the smart horses to take people down, the path must be really tight and narrow, and my immediate thought after that is that I am not trusting my life to a mule; I trust my own legs more:)
For me, as long as I am able, I would always choose hiking over riding a mule. But the trail is extremely strenuous as you may remember, so I am glad they give people the mule option.
How cool you got the royal treatment down there. We really enjoyed our tour, it was very eye-opening, and of course stunningly beautiful.
Posted by Candi | March 17, 2010 9:15 AM
Posted on March 17, 2010 09:15
What an incredible story. I too am amazed that there are still patients there. It really is such a beautiful place.
Posted by Annie | March 17, 2010 10:48 AM
Posted on March 17, 2010 10:48
Interesting post, Candi. What a beautiful place with such sad story.
I don’t trust mules either. I feel safer using my two feet.
Posted by Maria I. | March 17, 2010 8:36 PM
Posted on March 17, 2010 20:36
I was aware of a settlement for those afflicted with Leprosy,but never knew much about its' history.Have to agree with Sandrac - what a sad story for such a beautiful place.
Posted by sheri | March 17, 2010 9:39 PM
Posted on March 17, 2010 21:39
Absolutely breathtaking - I've never been to this island, but wanted to especially after reading Molokai by Alan Brennert. Although it's a novel, his descriptions of the treatment of the people and the landscapes were moving. Great photo shots! Mahalo
Posted by menehune | March 19, 2010 1:50 PM
Posted on March 19, 2010 13:50
This sounds like a very interesting hike. I remember hearing about it when the settlement became a park and Molokai was one the less-visited islands. Thanks for posting the beautiful pictures.
Posted by Marta | March 19, 2010 1:58 PM
Posted on March 19, 2010 13:58
Thanks so much for sharing this sad, strange and definitely compelling piece of history. And for your spectacular photos. If I ever get to Hawaii, I will hope to visit this place.
Posted by Anne | March 21, 2010 9:45 PM
Posted on March 21, 2010 21:45
Thanks so much for sharing this sad, strange and definitely compelling piece of history. And for your spectacular photos. If I ever get to Hawaii, I will hope to visit this place.
Posted by Anne | March 21, 2010 9:45 PM
Posted on March 21, 2010 21:45