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La Tour d'Aigues, Gordes, Lioux, Apt, Chateau Turcan

We are a few miles from the town of La Tour d'Aigues, a community with a most interesting history, dominated by the partially-restored ruins of a château. Tuesday is market day in La Tour d'Aigues. I recall reading about it in Markets of Provence by Ruthanne & Dixon Long - so off we went. What a pleasant surprise!

It is by far the most authentic French market we have visited in our 4 trips in the south of France. It is a reasonable size, spread out over a square adjacent to the château. It is a local market. One of my companions identified some of the differences between this market & the other ones we have visited.

1. We were the only Anglophones at the market. We stuck out like the proverbial sore thumbs.

2. Almost everybody else was better dressed than we were.

3. There was a lot of social interaction.

4. Most people had a small cart for their purchases.

Plus, it is in a unique setting. If you are in the area of La Tour d'Aigues on a Tuesday, GO THERE!

We dropped off our purchases of paella, cabillaud, tapenade, veggies in Ansouis before heading over to Gordes for one of our party buy something seen on our previous visit. I didn't realize that Tuesday was also market day in Gordes - a striking contrast to our earlier experience in La Tour d"Aigues. If our morning market was a quintessential French market, the one in Gordes was a tourist one. Almost nobody at Gordes, except the vendors spoke French; the items on offer came from a wider area, e.g. nougat from Montelimar, and there was a lot of art and memorabilia aimed at the "away" market. Plus, we had to pay €3 to search around for a place to park, whereas at the morning market we parked almost alone on a grassy square gratis. Unless you have a pressing reason to visit Gordes on a Tuesday, don't.

A few days ago we saw the large rock wall - falaise as we passed by Murs. At the base of the falaise was the village of Lioux. We thought it would be a nice to stop for a drink after the bustle of Gordes - so off we went ....... Pause for those of you who have been to Lioux to have a good chuckle ....... We arrived in Lioux and discovered that there is no visible commercial activity - nothing going on, much less a place to pause for a drink. So, we continued on to Apt, where we spent a couple of hours before heading back in the direction of Ansouis with a pause at Chateau Turcan, the wine of choice and universal acclaim last evening at Restaurant de l'Horloge in Curcuron. We are heartened by the proximity of the cave. If we run out before Saturday, it's only a few minutes away.

Dinner from the market in La Tour d'Aigues and 2004 vin rouge from Chateau Turcan. Wonderful.

Comments (1)

Yep, I did chuckle when you said you were heading off to Lioux. We were staying in a small hameau just a bit from the beginning of the town. I think the closest place to purchase anything might have been Roussillon or Murs. We did all our shopping in Apt. Fortunately, we don't mind being in the country although it meant no morning bakery for us.

And thanks for the recommendation for La Tour d'Aigues. That sounds intriguing.

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