Inca Trail, Peru. 2009 - 7
Up at 5.45. Henry and I discovered that we had rolled on our bladders (our rucksack ones not our actual ones) in the night and quite a lot of things were a bit wet (including this book). Set off at 7. Lots of climbing today and really spectacular views. Every time I checked my watch I was amazed to find it still so early.
The altitude was beginning to make the walking tough but the porters just ran past us carrying not only most of our personal gear but also all our food, tents, tables, stools, crockery, cutlery, cooking equipment, washing bowls etc. One even had a tray of fresh eggs balanced on top of his huge pack. They were all very heavily laden and somehow the smallest, oldest ones always seemed to be carrying the most. As they went past our only job was to get out of the way so our walking would be punctuated by cries of ‘Porters!’ or ‘Chasquis!’ from the people behind. As they passed us there were always big smiles, high 5’s and calls of ‘Hola’. It all made me feel very guilty and uncomfortable until it was explained to me that the porters are mountain farmers
who are very pleased to be able to supplement their scarce income in this way. Also they now have a union and strict rules about the weight they can carry. I still felt quite bad about it though.
As we climbed the altitude really began to slow us down. The guides gave us some alcohol – just to inhale – made from Amazonian flowers. It is meant to help your breathing. Lunch was at a beautiful plateau called Llulluchapampa with views across the valley of a snow-capped 5,200m mountain. After lunch came the challenge of Dead Women Pass. At 4,200m this was the highest point on the trek and the climb up to it was gruelling. Towards the top every step was hard and we had to follow the guides’ advice to stop frequently and take three deep, slow breaths. Everyone made it and there were many congratulations and emotional moments at the top. Wilfredo played ‘El Condor Pasa’ on his queña and, suddenly, a real condor was gliding
overhead. Much excitement as this is considered a fortuitous sign.
The way down was a steep, three hour slog with lots of steps and then rain to welcome us into camp at Pacomayo. Everyone was very tired and most of us found it difficult to eat dinner (although it was all delicious as usual). We had walked for ten hours or more and tomorrow would be an even longer day with two more passes to go over.

