Paris 2007 Archives

January 18, 2007

I'm Going ... Again!

Wait a minute? I know you're wondering, when did she go before? Well, that trip happened last spring and happened so quickly that I never had a chance to write about it, let alone prepare. But not this time.

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January 19, 2007

We Have an Apartment!

Real quick - I just put a deposit down on this three-bedroom Latin Quarter apartment! Why three-bedroom? Because I'm traveling with two buds, Shannon and Colleen - very excited.

Okay - I need to go make Sammi's lunch.

March 31, 2007

I Have To Remember

Okay - so this is getting ridiculous. Every day now it seems I'm on the SlowTalk Message Board and see something else I think I need to remember for our Paris trip. Something that piques my curiosity, a site I want to see, a book I need to read, a restaurant I want to try. I'm kidding myself if I think I'm going to remember, so instead, I'm going to keep track of them here. Paris - subcategory - Things to Investigate.

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Sorry - Catching Up - Taxi Services

Okay yes - I'm going to have a lot of threads here in a row as I work on catching things up on this. Here's one on Taxi Services: Taxi Services from CDG. Yes I know, I'm using this as a sort of favorites area but favorites on the message board max out at 30 and I'll probably have more than that.

Continue reading "Sorry - Catching Up - Taxi Services" »

April 2, 2007

Some Restaurant Ideas

Okay - I'm getting hungry (breakfast time), so reading these restaurant threads isn't such a good thing. But again, I want to note these suggestions to update my Paris notes. By the way, I'm almost done writing my Paris trip report and hope to post that within the week. Okay - so on to the links

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April 17, 2007

That Anthony Bourdain - One Funny Guy

I love my Tivo. I'm not sure if I've mentioned that here or not, but I do. Tivo has educated me. It's made me laugh, hell, it's even made me a better parent. I love my Tivo.

Continue reading "That Anthony Bourdain - One Funny Guy" »

April 21, 2007

More Paris Ideas - Sun Dials and Food

Colleen sent me this e-mail yesterday with this story in it:

Eighty-six years in the making, one of the world's largest sundials has finally been installed at Place de la Concorde, as part of the Year 2000 festivities of the City of Paris. It takes an approach more cerebral than celebratory. The sundial's pointer, or gnomon, is the 109-foot Obelisk of Luxor. Its base is the northern half of Place de la Concorde." Rose Marie Burke; Sundial Aids Millennium Countdown; The Wall Street Journal (New York); Oct 26, 1999.
She wants to add it to our "to do" list. I'm cool with that.

Continue reading "More Paris Ideas - Sun Dials and Food" »

April 26, 2007

Affordable Paris?

Colleen sent me a link this week to the New York Times article, Affordable Europe: Paris (you may need to register to access it). I'm always on the hunt for good tidbits especially with the word affordable in front of them so I went over to check it out.

Continue reading "Affordable Paris?" »

May 2, 2007

Steak and Fries

Can anything be more American than a good steak and some big meaty fries? That's what I thought but they don't call them French fries for nothing and you can find this dish, also known as Steak Frites all over Paris.

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June 1, 2007

Restaurants and Daka

Two posts when up on the Slow Travel Talk message board recently that I need to investigate further but I find it difficult to look into stuff for Paris on a hungry stomach (ala 10:30 am stomach - I need a yogurt).

But before I forget - I want to note them.

Continue reading "Restaurants and Daka" »

June 19, 2007

Paris E-mails From Shannon - Fodors Forum

Wait - before I get into that, I need popcorn. It's 4:00 and that's usually People's Court time and popcorn. I know, I'm going to go wireless (though for some reason my wireless within my own home on this new computer never seems to be fast - I'll figure it out one of these days), but anyway, I'm going to go make some popcorn, grab a A&W diet Cream Soda, pop into the bedroom (Sammi has commandeered the TV downstairs), and work on these France e-mails.

Be right back.

Continue reading "Paris E-mails From Shannon - Fodors Forum" »

Pierre & Gilles

Who are these guys? From what I can tell, two artists, partners lovers who have an exhibit while we're in Paris. I've seen some images and it definitely captures you; well, it captures me and I think it's definitely worth a look. Shannon, I'm in.

The exhibit is at the Jeu De Paume from June 26 until September 23. It's located at 1 Place de la Concorde in the 8th.

Hours Tuesday - noon - 9:00pm, Wednesday - Friday 12:00 - 7:00pm, Saturday, 10:00 - 7:00pm. Admission is €6. It seems there are free guided tours (not sure of language though) on Wednesdays at 4:30 and Saturdays at 1:00 and 4:30.

July 29, 2007

Music in the City of Lights

I'd like to give a heads up and thanks to Chris over at ParisLogue. Reading a recent entry on with regards to Paris restaurants, music and happy hours, I found her link to RestoParis which seems to be a good restaurant site for Paris (though in French and mine is sorely lacking). The link though has a list to places with upcoming events (i.e., music), could be a fun outing. Will have to remember to check it as we get closer to departure (August 29), in case there's anything interesting going on while we're there.

August 10, 2007

Bastille Market

I love a good market. I love the sights, the smells the sounds of a market. Whenever I'm the City (aka New York City), I try to hit the Green Market in Union Square, if for nothing else than the ambiance. We have a market near home in the summer, in Highland Park. It's okay - some local and some not so local farmers selling pretty much the same stuff, but you can make it through there in less than 30 minutes.

When we lived in St. Louis, my neighbor and I visited the Soulard market. It was huge and I bought tons of great produce there - somethings I had no idea what to do with (this was back in my very, very early stages as a cook) but while at home, cleaning said produce, I had a major morning sickness attack (by the way, if you didn't know, morning sickness is a misnomer). Anyway, after that round of bleh, I never returned to Soulard. Actually, after that round of bleh, it was many months before I could stomach watermelon again.

Jerusalem MarketIn Israel last November we visited a huge market in Jerusalem whose name escapes me, but on Friday afternoon, with everyone preparing for Shabbat it was the happening place. Had the most incredible chocolate Ruglach from Marzipan on Agrippas street (which borders said market).

Not to mention, Campo dei Fiori, the Rialto Market, one we hit in Martina Franca last year, a Saturday market in Paris we visited, yada yada.

So when Shannon says, "I want to visit the Sunday Bastille Market." I'm in!

Today, while in my "supermarket" (aka the pit that is Shop Rite), I purchased these silver bags that fold flat and keep food warm and cold for up to 3 hours (thinking transporting hot chickens and cool cheese home from said Parisian market).

I also figured I'd find some time to do a little research, if I could on the Bastille Market. Surprisingly, there's really not much out there on the Bastille Market (am I spelling it correctly?).

First, there was this entry, Bastille Sunday Market on the Parisien blog. The very first comment regards how touristy this market has become (remember touristy is the new four-letter word).

David Lebovitz also has an entry on his blog regarding the Bastille Market or as the alternative name, the Richard Lenoir market. He's a bit more flattering of the market and it definitely sounds like a good place to pick up provisions for a Sunday picnic. He also gives a bit more information, so now I know that it starts at the Place de la Bastille.

Ah, now that I google Richard Lenoir Market, I find a bunch more informaiton on places like Trip Advisor, Chowhound, and Virtual Tourist. Okay - I've hit information overlaod. Suffice to say, we'll be going!

The market goes from about 9 to1 on Sundays (and Thursdays), on the Boulevard Richard Lenoir in the 11th. If memory serves, it's not far from O Chateau where we did a tasting with Olivier last June, well at least a good hike down the boulevard.

August 15, 2007

Restaurants That Sound Interesting - Whimsical Gourmet

Okay - it's just a list and many of these came from the book, The Whimsical Gourmet's Guide to Paris: The Non-Definitive Guide to Dining, Sightseeing, and Good Old Fashioned Mischief. He used to have a website, but it appears defunct and the book was published in 2002, so take the reccomendations with a grain of salt.

He uses a letter scale:

  • A+ The Best
  • A Outstanding
  • A- or B+ Very Good
  • B Good
  • B- or C+ Enjoyable
  • C Satisfactory.

    I culled the list down based upon budget and what sounded interesting to me.

    This one isn't from the Whimsical Gourmet; Ann from HI sent it to me. Spring

Continue reading "Restaurants That Sound Interesting - Whimsical Gourmet" »

August 28, 2007

Paris - 10 Day Forecast


Looks cool - better go figure out packing list.

Packing List - Part 1

Black Jeans (maybe, maybe not)
Black Shoe Boots
Black Blazer
Which top? Pumpkin Sweater? Olive Green?

Black Pants
Stone Pants
Chamois Pants (maybe - maybe not)
Pumpkin Top
Eggplant Top
Red Top
Black Top
Tan sweater and tank
Black Sneakers

French Cell Phone (thanks Amy)
Phone Charger
Lap Top
Lap Top Plug
Lap Top airline adapter
Lap Top Ethernet cord (just in case)
Camera Charger
Camera cord (to hook up to laptop)
Ipod Charger
US Cell phone (fully charged but off for return)
Head Phones

Sun Glasses
Healthy Bag
Fold-up Duffle
Jewelry (maybe)

My Sister's Keeper
Blue Guide Paris
Paris Walks
Plan De Paris
Rounding the Mark (Camilleri)
The Patience of the Spider (Camilleri)

Tooth Brush
Cold Medicine (just in case)
Tooth Paste
Makeup (maybe)
Blister Blockers
Sleepy Time

And after packing (still need Sleepy Time and US Cell Phone but did manage to get my workout clothes in there too):

Kim's Luggage.
The boots, I'm wearing on the plane (I think).

Paris Hit List

Things to Do
Climb to the top of Notre Dame
The Abbey of St. Denis (Tombs of French Kings)
Hotel des Invalides - Napolean's Tomb (seeing a theme here), hmm maybe also the Museum of Liberation too.
The Views of Paris Bar Tour
Louvre - Dutch Painters
Sacre Couer
Pantheon - Frescoes of Sainte Genevieve and Foucault's Pendulum
Musee de l'erotisme
Instit du Monde Arabe
Deportation Memorial
Holocaust Memorial
Walk around Isle de Cite
Walk around Isle Saint Louis
Markets, markets and more markets
Sip some decent wine
Watch People
Sun Dial - Place de la Concorde
Opera House - Chagall Windows
Notre Dame at Night - heck Paris at Night!
Les Halles
Picasso Museum

Food I Want to Eat/Try
Those pork things Shannon keeps talking about
Crepes (nutella and ham and cheese)
Macaron (and possibly the Macaron comparison tour)
Moule (Mussels baby)
Steak Frites
pain aux chocolat
croissants aux amandes

Things to Buy
Bike shirt for Chris
Chocolate Eggs for Sammi
Something funky/cool for Becky (hopefully Shannon and Colleen can help)
Chocolates for Mom and Stephanie
Magellan Gin for Chris (at airport only)
Gifts for Katlyn and Lindsey
Calandre by Paco Rabanne for Maureen

The Great Macaron Taste Test

There was some discussion a while back about which place made the best Macaron. If we have some time this week, I thought it would be fun to visit as many of them as we can and do a comparison - you know if the name of research.

Gérard Mulot
76 Rue de Seine, 6th
Tel: 33-1-46-33-49-27

Pierre Herme
72, rue Bonaparte
75006 PARIS
Tel : +33 (1) 43 54 47 77
Ouvert du lundi au dimanche de 10 heures à 19 heures
Le samedi jusqu’à 19h30

24-26 place de la Madeleine, Paris 8ème
Tél :
8:00am - 9pm Monday - Saturday

Jean-Paul Hevin
231, rue Saint-Honoré - Paris 1er
from Monday to Saturday from 10am to 7:30pm
Closed : Sunday and holidays

23 bis, avenue de la Motte Picquet - Paris 7ème
from Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 7:30pm
Closed : Sunday and Monday

3, rue Vavin - Paris 6ème
Opening hours : from Tuesday to Saturday from 10 am to 7.00 pm
Closed : Sunday, monday and holidays

Hévin2 - 16, avenue de la Motte Picquet - Paris 7ème
Opening hours : from Tuesday to Saturday from 10am to 7pm
Closed : Sunday and Monday
Closed annually : from July 2 to September 4, 2006, opening Tuesday September 5.

Stand Hévin - Printemps Haussmann - 64, boulevard Haussmann - Paris 9ème
Opening hours : from Mondayday to Saturday from 9H35 am to 7 pm
Nocturne : late-night opening : thursday to 10 pm
Closed : Sunday and holidays

Ladurée Royale
16, rue Royale - 75008 Paris
Tél : 01 42 60 21 79 - Fax : 01 49 27 01 95
Open Monday to Saturday, 8.30am to 7pm & Sunday, 10am to 7pm

Ladurée Champs Elysées
75, avenue des Champs Elysées - 75008 Paris
Tel : - Fax :

The Restaurant is open daily from 7.30am to 12.30am - The shop is open daily from 7.30am to 11pm except on Saturday 8.30am to midnight and on Sunday 8.30am to 10.00pm

Ladurée Printemps
62, boulevard Haussmann - 75009 Paris
Tel : - Fax :

Open daily except Sunday, 9.35am to 7pm, with late opening on Thursdays until 10pm

La Maison du Chocolat

- 225 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré: Monday to Saturday from 10.30am to 7pm - Sunday from 10am to 1pm
BE CAREFUL: Due to the refurbishment of this boutique, it is closed until the end of semptember 2007

- 52 rue François 1er : Monday to Saturday from 10am to 7.30pm

- 8 boulevard de la Madeleine : Monday to Saturday from 10am to 8.00pm

- 19 rue de Sèvres: Monday to Saturday from 9.30am to 8.00pm - Sunday from 10am to 2pm

- 120 avenue Victor Hugo: Monday to Saturday from 10am to 7.30pm - Sunday from 10am to 1pm

- Printemps Haussman (2nd floor of the Printemps de la Maison) :
Monday to Saturday from 9.35am to 7pm (until 10 pm on Thursday)

- Carrousel du Louvre : Monday to Sunday from 10am to 8 pm

August 30, 2007

We're Here

Shannon & Colleen - Our First Cafe
Shannon and Colleen - Our First Cafe

Cappucino Tuna Caper

Minor language barrier this morning. Shannon, the first to arrive, went to the Quais des Seine in Terminal 2F (our designated meeting area) and ordered a cappucino. What she got was tuna salad. How does that happen?

August 31, 2007

A Rest Stop

Drinks at the Tuilleries

We had some expensive but crappy table wine while enjoying the ambiance of the Tuilleries after a forced march that Colleen put us on yesterday - how many miles did we go? If our friend, David, was with us, we would have probably been able to order a better wine. He's very knowledgable about wines.

The Center of the Universe

The Girls in the Center of Paris

Is there some religious significnace to standing on this spot? People seemed to do it, and hang there like they were praying to Notre Dame - totally didn't get that. Maybe, our friend, David, can explain it to us.

September 1, 2007

Three Arches

Yesterday we went from Arch

Arch de Triomphe
View of Arch de Triomphe from La Defense

To arch

Grand Arche
Grand Arche de la Defense from the Arche de Triomphe

Continue reading "Three Arches" »

Louis Vins

Shannon's Dinner

Shannon became intimitely familiar with this little guy at dinner last night. So who knew what a Perigourdinne Salad was? Not us, until we tasted it. Marley's Menu Master stinks.

I lucked out though with Mesculun and Goat Cheese, coated with pistachios, followed by Pig and Lentils (aka cochon). Of course, once we looked up Joue in the good book, Eating and Drinking in France (not that crapy Menu Master book), I discovered I had dined on pig's cheek. Colleen went with the rabbit and definitely had the winning dish for the night.

Continue reading "Louis Vins" »

Another View

Oh and for another view of our trip, don't forget to check out Shannon's blog, Poptarticus.

Oh and Lest You Think ...

Napolean's Tomb
Napolean's Tomb

... that all we're doing is eating and drinking, in addition to climbing the 300+ steps to the top of the Arch de Triomphe (we didn't go to the top of the Grande Arch because they wanted 8€ for the privaledge and wouldn't even credit it to our drink order - there's a bar at the top), yesterday morning we visited Invalides.

Continue reading "Oh and Lest You Think ..." »

Don't You Wish You Were Here

Our Evening Snack

September 2, 2007

A Seething Mass of Humanity

The Subway Station at Porte de Clignancourt

We went up to the flea market at Porte de Clignacourt and such a seething mass of humanity I have never seen. Once you get through the typical junky fare, the tourista stuff and the clothing, you do hit some cool albeit expensive antique shops. Though we did find some cool, inexpensive costume jewelry at one store in that area and had to buy one, well, maybe two bracelets.

Word of warning, buy your metro tickets before you reach Clignancourt.


Skip the Tourist Place with the Woman Singing to an Accordian

Instead if you can find it, there's this cool little Italian place on Rue Rosiers, where they have decent but pricey (in the teens) pizza, good table wine and some nice salads and pasta.

Colleen and Kim
Colleen and Kim, first drink of the day, no really

Continue reading "Skip the Tourist Place with the Woman Singing to an Accordian" »

The End of Civilization as We Know It

Fauchon Paper Cup

Well, at least judging by some. Today we were served Noisette (I think that's what the French call a machiato) in paper cups at Fauchon. What is this world coming to?

We Lost Our Heads in Paris

The Mod Squad at Concorde

We think this is where Marie Antionette bit it, but none of us read French, so we can't be sure.

September 3, 2007

More Market Mayhem and Other Stuff

This going to sleep at 1:30 (I stay up to read a bit) and waking at 7:30 (general city noise wakes me), is starting to grind. I'm a bit bleary-eyed this morning (need to get off my ass and make coffee), so bear with me.

Yesterday we hit the Richard Lenior (aka Bastille Market), it was easy to get to from our apartment - I think two trains (the 10 to the 5 perhaps). We play this "game" with who can get to our final destination with the least amount of connections (sort of like Kevin Bacon's six degree of separation game - only with metro trains).

The market is cool - two to three (depending where in the market) aisles of produce vendors, cheese vendors, butchers (chickens and pigs with the heads and everything), chartrusseries (which I'm sure I'm spelling wrong but is basically French for deli), olive vendors, bakers, but no candlestick makers. Oh, and there's the occasional pashmina, jewelry, wine or honey vendor thrown in for good measure. I'm pretty sure I got a picture of Colleen purchasing a new pashmina, but I'm just too lazy at the moment to go get my camera and upload it.

We hit the market later in the morning 11:30ish, after Shannon visited the Cluny (free Sunday - the first of the month) whilst Colleen and I hung out in a cafe drinking creme cafe and working on the Sunday times puzzle.

Continue reading "More Market Mayhem and Other Stuff" »

September 4, 2007

Walking in Paris

Blooms in the Garden

Paris is a walking city - truer words probably haven't been spoken and yesterday we proved it. To the point, that by the end of the day (after 9:00 pm at this point), Colleen, called, "Uncle" and we hopped on the nearest metro (the 7 to the 10) to head home. We had gotten a late start but man did we cover some ground in our 10 hours out.

After snacking on some pain au chocolate (I made an early morning pastry run), and some coffee we hit the road for the Luxemborg Gardens. Just so you know, my grand ideas of getting up and walking early never panned out; I've been sleeping until 7:30 or so and it didn't make sense.

So, in a bit of drizzle, we headed off to the gardens but before making it in, we realized we needed a bit of sustenance first and popped into Dalloyau Pons on 2 Place Edmond Rostand where Colleen picked up some mini quiches, little puff-pastry wrapped sausage and these prunes wrapped in caramelized bacon, while I added to the ever growing macaron collection.

Those things didn't suck.

Continue reading "Walking in Paris" »

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