Happy Trails For Us: My Reluctant Blog

Months ago I had made reservation with Gennaro e Salvatore for a boat day trip to and around Capri. Yesterday was the day, so armed with bathing suits, sunscreen and our hats, we set off for the Marina. The trip would include the ride over, about an hour, then 4 hours for ourselves on Capri and then a boat ride around the island, stops at the Grottos: blue, green and white, some swimming in a cove, then a fast ride back to Positano.

Leaving Positano

And it was all that was promised, including the crowds beyond belief on Capri itself, We thought we might take a bus up to Anacapri for the chair lift ride to the top of Monte Salarno, but the lines for the bus convinced us we would spend all our time just getting there (postscript: back on the boat at 2:30, the family of 6 who took a taxi to Anacapri told us that when they got there the chairlift was not working). So we took the funicular up to Capri Town, wandered around with our map, took a walk to the Gardens of Augustus, discovered the monastery was closed on Tuesday, and had another one of David’s walk to the lost place, whereby it’s very hot and I would like to shoot him. We were lucky in that we found a small pizzeria off the main square, one that did not have 30 American teenagers seated for lunch (teen tours, and cruise ship groups were the main visitors it seemed), had a quick lunch and got back to the dock in time for a gelato.

David thinks he has seen enough of Capri; I would only go back in the off-off-season. It is a beautiful place, the views were spectacular, but I know we would have to actually be there when the tour groups leave to appreciate it fully.

Capri Cow:

The rest of the afternoon, on the boat, was wonderful. We slowly cruised around the island, stopping for the grottos, stopping in a cove for a swim, having Prosecco and pastries on the way back. Gennaro is a storyteller, and just past the Faraglioni Islands, he stopped the boat for a history lesson. I had the best nap of this trip as we cruised home.

Farglioni islands:

So up the steps for a shower, and back down the steps for dinner. David wanted to return to Lo Guarrancio where we had had such a great lunch on Sunday. It was a good choice, up and away from the beach restaurants, with a view of the darkening sea and the twinkly lights. We started with another focaccia appetizer, then shared tagliolini with lemon sauce, followed by plates of mixed fried fish, grilled swordfish and salad. And more of the house white wine in pitchers. David ended with a lemoncello, and then the long walk back to our hotel.

Tomorrow we are taking a ferry to Amalfi, with plans to see Ravello as well – but we know to be flexible by now. It will be our last day on the Amalfi Coast.