Palazzo di Drapperie
Today David's knee felt like taking a walk, so we covered some ground that he had done by taxi a few days before. The evening before, walking to dinner, we realized that the Duomo was between us and the Piazza Maggiore, more properly known as the Duomo di San Pietro; an unassuming facade, rather cavernous inside, but with an interesting terracotta Pieta in one of the chapels. From there we kept strolling south, back to Piazza Maggiore, to see the inside of the Basilica di San Petronio, patron saint of Bologna. The Basilica had been on lunch break when we were in the piazza the day before. We waved to the Fountain of Neptune in his own small piazza off to the side.
Nettuno
It's interesting to note that the Basilica was more important to the Bolognesi than the Duomo, which was under the direction of Rome at the time; it is thought that it was their intent to create an edifice grander than St. Peter's in Rome until ordered by Pope Pius in 1565 to spend the money on the university rather than on city pride. Still, it is the fifth largest church in Italy.
In both churches, there were daily prayer services being held in side chapels; it was extremely pleasing to sit in the coolness and listen to the voices resonate. David, scientist that he is, was particularly struck by the linea meridiana on the floor, created by the astronomer Cassini in 1655, which tells not only the date but the time of the sunrise and the sunset through a small opening in the ceiling. It's pretty amazing.
After exiting the basilico, David's knee was still holding up, so I suggested that we walk through the mercato on our way back to the hotel, perhaps find lunch along the way. Which is what we did, and when I found the linen shop I wanted to visit, David was perfectly content to sit in a cafe under the Due Torre and have a beer while I shopped. We walked north through the few narrow alleys that comprise what is left of the Jewish ghetto here; I would like to visit the Museo Ebraico before we leave. On our stroll we noticed a few promising bar/cafes with tv's for our quest to see the US/England soccer game on Saturday evening.
We were heading to the trattoria close to our hotel, when just by dumb luck I realized that another trattoria, one on several of my lists, was actually right next door on the corner, which I had not seen before. So we ate lunch at the Trattoria Serghei, had white wine and pastas, and even dessert since Trattoria Serghei is known for its torta ricotta. Definitely siesta time after that.
Vino tipico
Torta di ricotta
David was intent on seeing the first game of the World Cup, the host country South Africa vs. our neighbor Mexico. Initially he went down to the bar on the corner, but as they had no tv, he asked Monica at the desk, and she told him that it was on the public television station, so we watched it in our room. We have been in Italy during other soccer tournments, usually Eurocup, and actually enjoy listening to the game in Italian.
We had dinner reservations with Jan & Ken at Biago for 8:30 and decided to share a taxi down there. The restaurant was charming as was the service. I seem to have the misfortune in the past two days of ordering pasta (a) and being served pasta (b). While the (b's) are always delicious, well, that was last night. But we had a great time, between the wine, the company and the desserts, too - a torta di riz and a deep dark chocolate budino. I would definitely return, but would order more carefully. Funnily enough, there are no foody pictures from this dinner.
Tomorrow we are going to see if we can solve one of our bank card problems, and then go to the open air market in the piazza just north of the hotel. And watch soccer.
Comments (2)
Marcia, I'm just catching up with your blog. Loving your photos, and your adventures. Enjoy!
Posted by Terry (teaberry) | June 12, 2010 6:38 AM
Posted on June 12, 2010 06:38
It is great reading about your time in Italy. Brings back great memories! The Museo Ebraico is very small but I still enjoyed my visit. Lucky you to be there during the World Cup. So much excitement!! Enjoy!
Posted by girasoli | June 13, 2010 9:17 PM
Posted on June 13, 2010 21:17