This morning after breakfast on the farm, Lola, our host and tour guide, took us to the Parmigiano-Reggiano cooperative where the milk from the agriturismo’s cows is taken to make cheese. It was a tour that Mr. Rogers would appreciate; there are 4 farms that contribute to the cheese-making; cheese is made every day. David probably remembers all the statistics, but I was just in awe of the process. It is a family company and it is hard physical work, every day of the year; in it’s 4 generation, Lola thinks that this could perhaps be the last. At any rate, we saw today’s product formed into a wheel, and then saw all the other stages of the cheese-making process. After our tour we returned to the farm for a brunch of the cheese, with jams, fruit, bread and the local Malvesa wine. Tomorrow I hope to purchase some cheese before we leave.
We headed into Parma proper to see what we could, or how much David was up to walking. After parking the car in a garage, no Centro Storico for us, we did walk to the Duomo, unfortunately closed for the mid-afternoon, had drinks at a café on Via Cavour, and then a short walk to see the façade that remains of the synagogue dating bake to the late 1800’s. David was tired, so we took a taxi back to the garage and decided to take a drive in the Parma foothills – noting the many small producers of the local ham and salume products along the way.
After a mid-day siesta back at Ag. Leoni, it was time for dinner. Many restaurants in Parma are closed on Mondays, but I did have a recommendation for the Trattoria Correi, in the Centro, near the university. We tried to park closer, and had an adventure in a part of town that we probably should not have been driving in, but eventually we found parking, and the trattoria. It is an old Parmese establishment, with photos of old Parma on the walls; the food was inexpensive and excellent. We shared a plate of Parma ham with mozzarella and tomatoes, then we each had a pasta, David’s was tortellini panna and mine tortelli carciofi; I love artichokes. Then David had a paillard of veal, and I had the eggplant Parmigiano – go figure, a dish I have loved for years, in the place that has the name: it was excellent. We also had a bottle of a sangiovese – tab for 2 – 66 Euros.
Eating late in Italy, 9 pm, has us back late. Tomorrow we are having a morning adventure; meeting Jerry and Sandi, and Marcello the guide, on the road to a tour of a balsamico factory – Marcello says that we must meet him at the side of the road at the Modena Sud exit, he has also sent coordinates – this is pretty I Spy for me, and I hope we all find each other. And then, it’s on to our week in Bologna, where my advance scouts have told us that the food is beyond wonderful.
Parma at night
Comments (3)
Marcia, you look great standing next to your car. I admire you for taking on the "driver" role!
Isn't the cheese making process a labor of love and devotion?!! so glad you were able to enjoy that experience and sample the beautiful and flavorful cheese. I adore the nutty aroma!!
Thank you so much for posting, it brings me so much joy to read about everyone in Bologna!!
Posted by Mindy | June 10, 2010 7:28 AM
Posted on June 10, 2010 07:28
I really enjoyed Parma, hope you did, too!
Posted by sandrac | June 13, 2010 11:28 AM
Posted on June 13, 2010 11:28
Mr. Rogers of PBS ? :)
Too bad the Duomo was closed. The cheese tours sounds like a lot of fun.
Posted by girasoli | June 13, 2010 9:56 PM
Posted on June 13, 2010 21:56