I thought I would start my series of blog entries on my October trip to Venice by writing a review about my vacation rental.
The Trapolin apartment is tucked away in a corte in Cannaregio, near Campo S. Marziale and just a short walk on Fondamenta Trapolin in a very quiet neighborhood. Located in a purely residential area and away from the hustle and bustle of the heavily touristy areas, the neighborhood reflects a very characteristic Italian atmosphere.
The flat is easily reachable by foot, about a 15 minute walk from the railway station or a 5 minute walk from the Ca' d'Oro vaporetto stop. The shops, bars and restaurants in Strada Nuova are within a few minutes walk.
The small and quaint apartment is on a raised ground floor with a single step leading into the living area. The living/dining/kitchen area is all one room with simple but efficient furnishings, satellite TV, radio and phone. The kitchen is well equipped for cooking full meals. The bedroom, with a double bed or two twin beds if separated, is small but comfortable with adequate storage space for clothes. A third person can sleep on the sofa bed although Anne found it to be a bit uncomfortable until she placed a duvet to add some cushioness (is this a word I just invented?) to the slim mattress. The bathroom was very functional and equipped with a washing machine, which came in very handy with my packing light. There's a clothesline in the back of the apartment, in what looked like a closed-in patio. Plenty of linens and blankets are stored throughout the apartment.
The apartment had an interesting collection of books and travel guides and a few fact sheets in different languages with tips on transportation, location of grocery stores, internet cafes, where to eat, etc.
Trapolin is a private rental through the owner, Marta, a lovely Venetian architect. Marta spoke excellent English and replied to all my e-mails promptly even though she was at the time vacationing in Japan. She provided me with excellent directions and met me at the apartment on an early Sunday morning. Even though she had written instructions for almost every appliance in the apartment, she took the time to explain each one of them.
I didn't take any photos of the interior of the apartment but the flat’s website has a few good shots. However, I did take pictures of the surrounding area.
Campo San Marziale.
Corte Trapolin is at the end of Fondamenta Trapolin.
I took this photo looking back at the fondamenta from the courtyard, while waiting for Anne.
Corte Trapolin, with a vera da pozo used as a huge flower pot. The entrance to the apartment is on the left.
The lovely facade with trailing plants and a sweet capitello of Madonna with child.
A view from the courtyard to Rio della Misericordia.
Looking from Fondamenta della Misericordia, across the canal.
Comments (15)
What a nice place to call home, Maria.
Posted by candi | March 16, 2009 8:39 PM
Posted on March 16, 2009 20:39
It sounds like a wonderful rental. A washing machine and a line to hang out your clothing is a great perk. The rental I stayed in the last time I was in Venice was also in Cannaregio. I think it was probably less than 5 minutes from this place. Did you like staying in Cannaregio?
Posted by girasoli | March 16, 2009 8:43 PM
Posted on March 16, 2009 20:43
Candi, I was very comfortable at the apartment and it did feel like home.
Girasoli, this was my second time staying in Cannaregio; the first was at Al Palazzetto B&B. I love the area. I enjoyed being away in a quiet neighborhood but within reasonable walking distance to almost everywhere. Where did you stay in Cannaregio?
Posted by María I. | March 16, 2009 9:50 PM
Posted on March 16, 2009 21:50
It's a nice part of town and the apartment sounds great. How nice to have a capitello and all those lush plants right outside! Did you manage to find the church of San Marziale open? It's a funky place - I love it!
Posted by Annie | March 17, 2009 7:01 AM
Posted on March 17, 2009 07:01
Annie, the church was always closed each time I passed by so I had to wait until Sunday to find it open. Mass had already started when I arrived (I tried to rush there when I heard the bells) and I sat quietly trying to follow the service but was completely distracted by the altarpiece. It didn’t project a serene effect on me, especially the sculptures supporting the altar; they looked like they were hiding. It reminded me of my Catholic school years when my friends and I would sit under our writing desks during recess, giggling and talking.
The ceiling paintings were very interesting but my neck hurt from looking up. They were a bit obscure.
The piece that caught my attention was the wooden Madonna and Child. I didn’t have much information on this church and I’d have liked to know the story behind this very lovely statue. I should go check your blog for information on S. Marziale and its treasures.
Posted by Maria I. | March 17, 2009 7:52 AM
Posted on March 17, 2009 07:52
The high altar is a trip! I can see getting distracted by it during Mass. And that Madonna has a wild story; when I was there, there were a mountain of flowers in front of her and the whole church smelled like lilies.
http://www.slowtrav.com/blog/annienc/2008/02/san_marziale_1.html
Here's my entry about it. I have a prayer card with that Madonna on it and now that I have a scanner, I need to scan it in and add it to my blog.
Posted by Annie | March 17, 2009 10:44 AM
Posted on March 17, 2009 10:44
Annie, I have terrible memory! As soon as I started reading your entry on S. Marziale I realized that I had read it before, maybe as a link on another post. How could I forget the phrase "baroque-gone-awry” and the funny quotes by J.G. Links and Hugh Honour. Love the "picnicking under the table" part!
Loved reading the story on the Madonna statue. I'll have to revisit this church and pay closer attention to boy Jesus.
I thought I had picked up a holy card before leaving the church but after searching among my pile of receipts and brochures from the trip, I couldn't find it. I'm looking forward to seeing your scanned image of the prayer card. This reminds me, I need to work on my Madonna blog.
Posted by Maria I. | March 17, 2009 11:26 AM
Posted on March 17, 2009 11:26
While I have always enjoyed our stays in B&B's, I can see where I am perhaps ready to branch out into apartment rentals, especially after reading your post.
Posted by Marcia | March 17, 2009 12:41 PM
Posted on March 17, 2009 12:41
Hi Maria, your review of the apartment sounds wonderful and the owner, Marta, sounds so helpful and easy to work with. I'll have to keep this place in my mind (for next time)!
I really enjoyed wondering through Cannaregio during my visit there in 2007. Your photos of the area and surroundings are wonderful. It looks like a great apartment.
Thanks for sharing your review Maria!
Posted by Kathy (Trekcapri) | March 17, 2009 7:11 PM
Posted on March 17, 2009 19:11
Did you find a lot of holy cards on your trip last year? I didn't - it seems that very few churches in Venice put them out anymore. The Patriarch of Venice had these postcards that were free to visitors, with pictures of churches on them, but I saw very few actual holy cards.
Posted by Annie | March 18, 2009 7:24 AM
Posted on March 18, 2009 07:24
Marcia, I have also enjoyed staying in B&Bs and on my previous visit to Venice I stayed at one in Cannaregio. This last trip was a ten day visit and I really wanted to "live like a Venetian". I loved it and look forward to staying at another rental, maybe in a different neighborhood.
Kathy, I enjoyed staying in this neighborhood. It had a very Italian feel to it but I imagine there are other sestieri with the same feel (maybe not in San Marco). I've been meaning to go back and reread your wonderful Venice trip report. I want to check the place where you stayed.
Posted by María I. | March 18, 2009 10:55 AM
Posted on March 18, 2009 10:55
Annie, holy cards were mostly absent from the churches I visited. I did manage to find a prayer card at Madonna dell'Orto and a couple at the Church of SS Geremia and Lucia. I have postcards from a few churches, but I bought them. I also bought a book with information and photos on all the churches included in the Chorus Pass.
Posted by María I. | March 18, 2009 10:59 AM
Posted on March 18, 2009 10:59
Maria, this looks like a lovely apartment and a beautiful neighborhood. I love the facade and the courtyard!
I'm definitely bookmarking this for my next visit to Venice.
Posted by sandrac | March 18, 2009 8:07 PM
Posted on March 18, 2009 20:07
I stayed about 5 mins or less from where you stayed, halfway between the Ca' d'Oro vaporetto stop and the Rialto vaporetto stop. From the tall tower near your rental, you head over a little bridge and then turn left in a tiny piazza onto a road that heads towards the Church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli. I like the area also but would probably stay in a different area next time just to get to know more of Venice a little better.
Posted by girasoli | March 21, 2009 4:30 PM
Posted on March 21, 2009 16:30
Girasoli, I know the area where you stayed and I agree about staying in another neighborhood next time. While I have no concrete plans to return to Venice this year, I’m looking at rentals within my budget and bookmarking them.
Posted by María I. | March 22, 2009 12:15 PM
Posted on March 22, 2009 12:15