« September 2003 | Main | November 2003 »

October 2003 Archives

October 6, 2003

La Araucania

We are now starting to focus on arranging accomodations for the Lake District. Well, actually Villarica. The area is called "La Araucania". Araucaria is the botanical family of the monkey puzzle tree which is native of this region of Chile. We want to see it in its native habitat.

We probably didn't do enough research before we booked our legs of the LanChile Pass. Originally we wanted to fly in and out of Temuco but there are no flights from Temuco to Punta Arena. So we switched to Puerto Montt since there is a flight direct from Puerto Montt to Punta Arenas. We went ahead and booked the flight from Arica to Puerto Montt instead of checking instead of going into Temuco or Valdivia and out of Puerto Montt. Oh well. We may save on the car rental since we will not be getting a one way rental.

We have decided instead to drive directly from Puerto Montt to Villarica or Pucon after flying from Arica. It is about 250km to Villarica so it should be 'do-able'. At least, we will get all the travel over in one day but what a day. We will be leaving Arica around 7:30am and arriving at 1pm in Puerto Montt. We will travel part of the way on Ruta 5 which is the Pan-American Hwy. So we think we should be able to pick up our car and arrive in Villarica before dark.

I have gotten a lot of help from a member of The Travelzine. Actually John is one of the moderators and has travelled to Chile. He has posted a lot of good information from his travels. It is hard to find people who have been to Chile so I have really appreciated his help and comments.

I have sent a inquiry for accomodations to Hosteria de la Colina in Villarica. I haven't heard back yet so I still have my fingers crossed. If not, we'll start looking around at other places. We will be in Villarica for 4 nights. George wants to climb the volcano. Actually he wants both of us to climb. We will see. I need to get back to running if I'm going to attempt this. We will need to get a guide and equipment but doesn't look too much more difficult than climbing to Camp Muir at Rainier.

Off to more research.

October 14, 2003

Los Lago

We have almost all our accomodations! I have been emailing with Glen and Bev from Hosteria de la Colina in Villarica. They have been so helpful. We will be staying at 4 nights at La Colina. I explained to them that we will be arriving later in the day because we will be driving from Puerto Montt after arriving at 1pm. They sent driving information. This includes information on a scenic backroad to take and information regarding the tolls on Ruta 5. They have also included information on places to see in Puerto Montt. I am looking forward to our stay.

We also have reserved one night at The Guest House in Puerto Varas for the night before we leave for Patagonia. It is run by Vicki Johnson. Puerto Varas has been recommended as a nicer place to stay than Puerto Montt. Puerto Varas is not far from Puerto Montt so it should be easy to make a 9:45 am flight.

I have been reading about the Villarica area. There are several National parks to visit. Parque Nacional Conguillio sounds like it has great hikes. Closer to Villarica is Parque Nacional Huerquehue. Glen and Bev at La Colina can recommend places to hike so we will get some input from them. We may also spent a day in Valdivia which has a great botanical garden. I am also going to email for some information from one of the guide services for climbing Villarica.

The high season for the area starts around December 15th. We will be there before the high season so some of the services may be closed but it sounds like we will miss the crowds. We hope the weather will not be too bad. It should be similar to the Pacific Northwest in early June. That is pretty unpredictable and can be cold. We're preparing for the worst so we can be surprised.

Next, a night in Arica; the last hotel to arrange and then reserving our truck rental for El Norte and a car for Los Lagos and La Araucania.

October 17, 2003

Patagonia Weather

October is always an interesting month for weather here in the Northwest. Two weeks ago it was sunny and warm. This week it has been rainy and windy. Patagonia weather.

Patagonia has very changable weather. It catches the "Roaring 40's". From mid-December the winds can gust up to 70mph. The mornings can start out calm and sunny and by evening be gale force winds. Here is a good site for weather in Chile.

The weather this week in Seattle has been good preparation for Patagonia. We got over 2 inches and the winds have been gusty.

There is just one thing... I hate wind.

October 19, 2003

Chilean Wine

Part of the enjoyment of travel for me is learning about the food and drink of the country. Chile has been a long time producer of wine. Grapevines were brought to Chile around the same time as they were brought to California by Spanish explorers. They have long been known for their red wine. Unfortunately, there have been numerous wines releases that are cheap and not that good. Recently, there has been a lot of investment in modernizing and creating low yield high quality grapes. There has also been a lot of international investment from French and US vintner.

Cabernet Sauvignon is grape that Chile has the best success. But there is a lot of interesting things being done with Carmenère. Carmenère was originally grown in Bordeaux but the grape was wiped out by phylloxera. Phylloxera has never infected the Chilean vineyards and Carmenère continues to grow. They harvested it like Merlot in the past but recently have improved the harvest so it makes a wonderful wine on its own or blended with Cabernet and Merlot in a Bordeaux blend.

Concha Y Toro is Chile's largest winery. They have a wide variety of different lines that you can find here in the US. But it is better to seek out some other producers who are doing some interesting wines.

I have liked the wines from Casa Lapostolle. They have consistently been very good. An outstanding Cabernet is Monte Alpha from Viña Monte. Santa Rita is a great low end cabernet. Recently, I have picked up several different wines from Montegras. I had a Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah blend that was very yummy and their high end wine, Ninquén was the hit at our group wine tasting. Some other producers I have enjoyed are, Casa Julia, Veramonte, Odfjell which makes an excellent Carmenère, and 2 Brothers which makes a blend called Big Tattoo Red.

Chile has not been noted for their whites. They do mostly Chardonnary and Sauvignon Blanc. They tend to be bland. One to note is a Sauvignon Blanc from EQ.

A good article on Wines of Chiles is from the April 30, 2003 issue of Wine Spectator. Here is another article on growing regions of Chile.

October 26, 2003

Less than a month to go!

Well, it is less than a month before we leave and there is still planning yet to do. I am starting to get that panic feeling at times. I haven't yet had any dreams yet so that must be a good sign. But every so often, panic attacks.

Here is what is left to do:

1. International Driver Licenses
George and I both need to get licenses this time. Usually, I just get one but we're going to be safe and both get them this time around. It is pretty routine to come across checkpoints and roadblocks where the police will check your papers. If you don't have a IDL, it would be difficult. We've decided to both get them this time because one rental is going to be a truck and George said he would drive it. We both can drive a pickup but it will probably be good. Also, if one of us get sick, then we can still have someone drive.

2. Pay Cascada
The balance of our hiking tour needs to be paid by the end of the month. I need to get a Swift wire transfer.

3. Rent cars
We need to arrange our car rentals. We will need a pickup in Arica and a compact car in Puerto Montt. I'm probably just going to go through Hertz. I do have a direct email to Arica so I may try to see if I can get a cheaper quote. It will be expensive $60 per day in Lake District (including ins and tax) and $85 per day for the pickup.

4. Hotel in Arica
We need to get a hotel in Arica for one night. We leave really early in the morning (7:15am). I've done some internet searching for a hotel without a lot of luck. I may go ahead and use CHIP which is a hotel/tour service for Chile.

5. Camera gear for digital camera
We are going to be in huts for 5 days on our hiking tour of Patagonia. I don't think we will have access to electricity althought there is hot water at one of huts. I'm going to order a backup battery pack for my Canon G2 so I'll have enough power for the 5 days. I also need to get several more FlashCards for the camera so I'll have enough memory to shot the whole trip. I am also bringing the SLR and shoot some with standard film. I may also want to get a new lens for the SLR.

6. Trip Insurance
We need to get trip insurance. It is required by Cascada in case there is any issues while on the tour. We didn't get it right away since we're only going to get the medical and emergency evacuation portion of the insurance. I am going to ask about Insurance at the Chilean talk on Thursday.

7. Attend the Patagonia travel talk
Wide World Books is having a travel talk on travel in Patagonia presented by Wildland Adventures. Their hiking in Patagonia trip is very similar to the Cascada trip so we are anxious to hear more about it.

October 27, 2003


So I was wondering if there were any webcams in Chile. I did a bit of searching and found this site from Pucon which is supposed to have a live web cam of both Villarrica and the city. Here is the link for the cam showing Villarrica.

It is currently dark so I can't tell what exactly it shows. I'll look tomorrow.

Here is another one with a scenic view of Santiago. Santiago Skyline

More links of interest

I've decided I like the BlogThis option on the Google tool bar. It is way fun and actually useful. Tonight I'm doing some general web searches and I'm going to use it to put in some links.

This link takes you to a discussion of the volcano Villarrica. It has a great collection of desktop images and even cooler quicktime videos of inside the cone of the volcano. We're hoping to climb this volcano if the weather and conditions permit. VILLARRICA VOLCANO, SOUTHERN ANDES OF CHILE

This is another great site for pictures. This has some pictures of Putre where we will be staying in El Norte Grande along with the altiplano. We won't be making it to San Pedro de Atacoma or Chiloe. But otherwise wonderful pictures. Chile - A Picture Gallery

By far one of the best links for Chile is Go Chile. There is a whole wealth of information on the country when you dig around. I came home this evening to find hubby exploring the Flora section. There are also sections on all the national parks. Go Chile Travel Site

October 28, 2003


Okay... I probably shouldn't have watched the videos on the Villarrica Volcano site. They have some very cool videos of the activity in the cone of volcano. It is an active volcano and has erupted within the last decade.

We are hoping to be able to climb the volcano. There are several groups that go up. They provide the crampons, ice axes, rain pants, etc. Most of the groups meet early at 7:00 and spend the day hiking. They start at around 6,000ft and climb 3,000ft to the crater at 9,000ft. They also provide gas masks because it is active and often have a lot of gasses. Sol y Nieve is one company and another is Trancura. Hubby can definitely make it. I'm not completely certain I can. I have been hiking 3,000-4,000ft but not at that elevation. But I think I want to give it a shot.

So of course I watched the videos of inside the crater. Last night I woke up at 2:00am with dreams of Mt. Rainier erupting. We live in the NW so we know about active volcanos. I missed Mt. St. Helens since we moved back to California for the year but we have seen the destruction. There are also eruption evacuation signs along the road from Rainier. We fortunately do not live directly in the path of any mudflows or rivers but we do know about volcanos. In the dream, the eruption started at the top with the classic volcano eruption and then one side exploded. It was very disturbing. But will it stop me. No.

October 31, 2003

Hiking in Patagonia

Last night we attended at travel talk at Wide World Books on Patagonia. It was given by Wildland Adventures. They do several trips in Patagonia both Chile and Argentina and they have a hiking trip that has a very similar itinerary as our trip.

It was great to see slides of the trails we will be on. The hike along Lago Grey goes through a more lush rainforest area along the side of the lake to the Glacier. The hike up Frances Valley is more rough. And the hike to the base of Torres Del Paine looks great but the trail is not cleared and maintained. There are a lot of bolders to walk around and at the end you end up climbing up talus to get to the base. But what a view. They also had slides of the accomodations which we will be using in the Eco Lodges and the tents. Of course, the hosterias look nicer but this should be an adventure.

I also found this great photo journal of a similar trip. There are also wonderful photos of the hikes. Check out the hike up the scree on the Torres Del Paine Lookout

Patagonia Hiking

This page contains all entries posted to Postcards from the Trail in October 2003. They are listed from oldest to newest.

September 2003 is the previous archive.

November 2003 is the next archive.

Many more can be found on the main index page or by looking through the archives.

Powered by
Movable Type 3.33
© 2004 - 2014 Slow Travel