Reflections on My 39 Years in Umbria

We often refer to places which are close-by, within easy reach for day trips, as our "backyards". I am continually overwhelmed when I think of the variety of my incredible "backyard": I can chose among Florence

the Bargello

Rome, Siena, Perugia, endless Umbrian and Tuscan hilltowns, medieval abbeys,

Abbey of Sant'Eutizio

several of the world's greatest art museums and many of the world's most famous fresco cycles, outstanding Basilicas and Cathedrals, lesser-known but glorious Romanesque churchs and unknown picturesque hamlets. I can explore the Val d'Orcia or the Valnerina, fall upon treasures and unforgettable views of remote villages.

Vallo di Nera

I can discover well-prepared, fine food in the smallest locanda off the beaten track, investigate abandoned country parishes surprised to find lovely remnants of significant frescoes.

Recently restored frescos in Gavelli

I can meander along mountain creeks, enjoy truffles and Norcia aged prosciutto in by-the-way-side, unpretentious trattorie. I can follow the footsteps of Saint Benedict, Saint Francis, Saint Clare or those along La Via Franchigena, revelling in the architectural trail along that historic path.

Castles dot every route and testify to the important past with their often Lombard origins. I can travel along the paths of Cimabue, Giotto, Simone Martini, Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Benozzo Gozzoli, Perugino, Pinturicchio...to mention just a few, and still view today the unspoiled and timeless landscapes which adorned their masterpieces.

the Val d'Orcia viewed from Pienza

an afternoon stroll with Maurizio in Pienza

Assisi

I still often need to pinch myself that this varied magnificence is my "backyard". The thrill is just as vivid today, after 39 years, as it was when I first came to Umbria.