Since the late March opening of the major Pintoricchio Exhibition in Umbria, we have had numerous guests who have come to Genius Loci and to Umbria for this reason. While the exhibition venues are many, the major two are the National Gallery of Umbria in Perugia and the Baglioni Chapel in the church of Santa Maria Maggiore in Spello.
one of the carved formelle of the main doors of Santa Maria Maggiore
a detail of the richly inlaid walnut choir stall, executed from original designs of Pintoricchio
Last Tuesday was one of "those days": gloomy, raining, and several reasons to feel very uptight. What a luxury to be surrounded by great art: knowing that art is the thing which most surely and quickly elevates our spirits, Maurizio and I dropped everything and drove the five miles to Spello, parking right at the church...and left our frustrations behind as we viewed the Pintoricchio cycle in the chapel for the first time from WITHIN the chapel!
In fact, only for the duration of the exhibition (until June 29) a sturdy plexiglass covering has been placed over the exquisite 16th century Deruta tiled floor, allowing entry and close-up viewing. Naturally we were not allowed to photograph the fresco cycle so the only photos here are of details from the church, sacresty or the museum next door.
a poignant wooden crucifix
We were surprised at what an enormous difference this made in the enjoyment of the frescoes: it was possible to get viewpoints, angles, and prospectives never before possible, making for a far richer and much more emotionally, participatory experience. We lingered at length, with only an occasional other viewer, delighting at our exclusive viewing with no distractions, no disturbances, no annoyances. It was ALL OURS, as it has been so many times over the years. Even more than ever before, it was a magnificent, almost magical experience - intimate and profound as we gazed at this masterpiece in "our backyard" - only five miles away from home!
We finished our visit with a renewed tour of the Pinacoteca Comunale next door, enjoying the seven well-arranged rooms with their well-displayed collection.
Art has always provided us with sublime experiences. Except for our summer vacations in the Dolomites, almost all of our other trips during the year are for art, whether it be to attend special exhibitions or to revisit great museums or churches. The marvel, the mystery, the magic of great art in its natural context rekindles our spirits, elevates our souls and nourishes our minds.
