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A MUCH NEEDED SUNDAY OUTING TO THE VALNERINA

When Sunday morning came with its cobalt blue skies, almost summer temps, and the colors of fall peaking AND peeking their heads out everywhere, we decided it was time for a change of pace and place. The week had been a difficult one, coping with the stress of roller-coaster financial turmoil...AND with searching for our adored and adorable Virgola who disappeared while we were out Saturday morning!

For our fellow dog-lovers, Virgola is back home safely after spending the entire weekend at the dog pound!

Around 11 AM we began the peaceful and short drive to Norcia, stopping often along the way to listen to the babbling creeks, to gaze at the grazing sheep, to admire a few particularly colorful spots,

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or to explore new discoveries. I am still amazed that inspite of our NUMEROUS jaunts and drives around the Valnerina area, we still make major discoveries!

We had an excellent outdoor lunch in Norcia: a thick, satisfying soup of Castelluccio lentils and Monteleone spelt mixed with a crumbled roast local sausage, and some homemade pappardelle with a strong garlic wild boar sauce. We lingered at length, basking in the sun as we sipped coffee before setting out to our favorite Pasticceria for an almond-ricotta torta and a few pani di San Benedetto to bring home for us and for Michael.

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the pani di San Benedetto

The latter is a recipe which was found only 15 years ago in a Norcia church archive. The recipe/document dates from the period of Saint Benedict!!!! The diary type notes mentioned the particular holidays when this delicious cake was made and served to both the clergy and the local populace. It is a unique concoction of visciole (small wild cherries which grow in the area still today), raisins, goat's milk ricotta, tiny bits of bitter chocolate and an almond paste crust. The recipe is top secret, of course. Since the pani freeze well, we always get a few extra.

After purchasing the sweets we went to our favorite Norcineria

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to stock up on liver salami; wild boar salami; tiny bite-sized hot, wild-boar aged sausages; salted, dried ricotta; and a sharp, aged 100% pecorino. New black truffles would have been added also but are not available yet (likely not until mid-December).

With our gourmet culinary items arranged carefully on the back seat, we set off on a "secondary" road which cuts through in a diagonal way (thus avoiding any back-tracking) towards Preci and the Abbey of Saint Eutizio.
It was along this little-traveled road that we stumbled upon two little treasures:


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La Madonna Bianca, completed in 1508, has been remodeled several times due damages from earthquakes. The longer side opens onto an arcade with seven arches supported by 15th century columns; the facade has a nartex that predates the 1500s with five fornix, the work of Lomabard stonecutters. On the front stands a bell tower of the same period as the arcade. Under the vaults of the nartex is a gothic style doorway (late 1400s) and to the side of this a shrine decorated with frescoes by one of the Sparapane. The interior has two naves divided by four columns and three arches supporting the roof. The presbytery is formed from two cross vaults and separated from a hall by a double staircase. On the right wall several frescoes by A. Sparapane from 1476 are visibile and there are others above the side door from a later date. In the right apse there is a stone shrine with a wooden tabernacle from 1511,on which is placed the statue of the Madonna Bianca dating back to 1488.

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Romanesque figures and capitals, Gothic portals and bas reliefs and medieval vaulting decorate the austere structure

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"An important building from before 1115 with the title of Pieve di S. Maria and dependent on S. Eutizio. In 1493 it was ceded to the monks of the “Campli” community, after which it took on the name of S. Salvatore. The ancient Pieve had a single nave on the left side of the present day church and was enlarged in the 14th century. This extension was still insufficient, so another temple on the right side was built with a second nave, communicant with the first, a second rose window and a second doorway, causing it to become the prototype for all the other churches of the area. An portico supported by a single column was erected against the facade. On the back of the church, on the right side, stands the bell tower from the 16th century topped with a bell gable. The interior has two naves divided into eight bays by five pillars supporting the arches of the ribbed cross vaults; the vaults are extended over the whole area, excepting the front of the left nave, which is trussed. This is the oldest part, and has a ogive arch that was frescoed in 1451. Past the arch there is a type of iconostasis, a dividing structure that was reinforced by wood scaffolding after the earthquake, and the front surface is formed by three arches supported by octagonal columns. The lower parts of the body of the church were frescoed in 1493 by Giovanni and Antonio Sparapane. The lower area has paintings from 1466 by Nicola da Siena, one of the Sparapane and Domenico da Leonessa. The back of the iconostasis also has paintings from the mid 1400s, the work of several artists, including G. Sparapane; the large lunette shows the Crowning of the Virgin by A. Sparapane. On the left wall, near the stairway that leads to the attic above the iconostasis, there are other fragments of scenes by Nicola da Siena from 1460, including a Ultima Cena (Last Supper); in the cross gables are vaults painted by A. Sparapane and the next bay has other paintings from 1429. In the area of the presbytery behind the altar a crucifix from 1380 was recovered. The right nave is completely bare, except for a 1505 frescoed niche by G. di Giovannofrio."

official information as found on a brochure

While both churches are off-limits for visits, locals tell us that there is not much to see inside. Nevertheless, we would like to find a "custode" to check for ourselves.

one of two asymmetrical rose windows

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exquisite stone work

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continuing on the panoramic road to Preci and Saint Eutizio

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delicate rose window at Saint Eutizio

Please refer to the next blog entry for more on the Saint Eutizio Abbey

Comments (4)

We love to drive thru this area too Mary...and a stop at Norcia is always an added bonus!

sandrac:

Mary, how fascinating! It's a shame that you couldn't get inside, this time, to see the frescos for yourself.

Still, the exterior of Pieve di S. Maria is quite beautiful as is La Madonna Bianca. Stunning stone work!

I have to say, I'm also fascinated by the sounds of your shopping trip! The pani di San Benedetto sounds fantastic and I love wild boar in any form.

Someday you'll have to tell us the story of how poor Virgola wound up in jail! You and Maurizio must have been terribly worried.

Mary, next time you head to the Valnerina let us know and we'll meet you in Norcia! It's only 40 minutes from us! Love that bread, too.

Thanks Barbara, Sandra and Valerie. We would love to meet up in Norcia for a meal together or an afternoon coffee. I will certainly let you know, Valerie, if we go back.

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This page contains a single entry from the blog posted on October 13, 2008 3:05 PM.

The previous post in this blog was "A WEEK...OR TWO WITH MARY AT GENIUS LOCI"-OCTOBER 2009.

The next post in this blog is ABBEY OF SAINT EUTIZIO.

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