Reflections on My 40 Years in Umbria

Eurostar AVs and InterCity trains whisked us home comfortably after our absolutely pleasant stay in Bologna. As I reviewed my notes and reread some Bologna information on the trains, I mentally wrapped-up my Bologna impression and experience.

First, for us, the only way to get a sense, albeit minimum, of an Italian city is to stay in the center for several days. We find it important to retrace our steps at leisure, to revisit an area more than once and to make clear choices from established priorities in an attempt to avoid a confused experience resulting in a blurred impression.

While we are not shoppers, we do enjoy some window shopping, especially of stores specializing in local artistic items. At the base of the Asinelli Tower (next to the Garisenda Tower), in the original structure, is a commendable example of this type of shop: most of the items are of local artists - a few are Italian from other regions...but nothing is foreign. Given the glorious Italian tradition of handicrafts this is the way it should be...but too often isn't.

As passionate art lovers, churches and museums are at the top on our list of priorities. At the same time, while we love Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance architecture we hate to see the all-too-common subsequent Baroque decorations within those structures. Unfortunately, this is prevalent in Bologna while in Florence it was avoided more often, especially in its sublime treasures of S.M. Novella, Santo Spirito, Santa Croce, S. M. del Fiore, San Miniato, Santa Trinita just to name a few.

Therefore, the churches (especially S. Maria dei Servi and San Pietro) were a disappointment to us...with the notable exception of the intriguing, haunting, unadulterated Seven Churches complex of Santo Stefano. By the incredibly high Italian standards, the Pinacoteca was also below our hopes and expectations. However, the Museo Civico Medievale was excellent, a remarkable highlight of our visit with its well-presented and extraordinary collection.

Aside from its prestigious and particular monuments, Bologna has an outstanding urban plan with its 37 kilometers of gorgeous, elegant portici, some of which are frescoed, with its magnificent Piazza Maggiore, Palazzo Arcursio, Palazzo Re Enzo, and its Neptune fountain. Many other buildings are notable as well.

But above all, Bologna is "colta", dynamic, activist, with a well-informed population which participates in the numerous civic initiatives and cultural events. The Sala Borsa was buzzing with activity, the Scienze in Piazza "tents" were full and "alive" with discussion on the various topics, the MAMBO Morandi exhibition was well-attended, as was the Early Works of Guercino exhibition, the Hyde Park-like forums were animated and concert programs of the many musical associations were enticing and extensive.

The Hotel Orologio, like Genius Loci, is represented on the Secret Places website. Our thanks go to the Director of the Hotel Orologio for the upgrade and exquisite hospitality.

Bologna La Rossa, La Grassa, La Dotta beckons and beguiles its visitors...and left us with an admirable impression!