We got up each morning excited, enthusiastic about the day awaiting us. But today's anticipation surpassed the others. Not even the slight cloudiness darkened our spirits. Actually it enhanced the UNFORGETTABLE experience of visiting Rosslyn Chapel.
an aerial view, borrowed from the Internet
Rosslyn Chapel, originally named the Collegiate Chapel of St. Matthew, is a 15th-century church in the village of Roslin (I never figured out why the change of spelling between the village and the chapel), only seven miles (but with a feel of a "world apart") from Edinburgh. The chapel is famous both for its decorative art and its mysterious associations with the Knights Templar, the Holy Grail, and the Freemasons.
Rosslyn Chapel was intended to be one of more than 37 collegiate churches that were built in Scotland between the reigns of King James I and James IV (1406-1513). The chapel is actually the choir of what was intended to be a much larger cross-shaped church.
The chapel was founded by Sir William Sinclair of the St. Clair family, a Scottish noble family from Orkney descended from Norman knights and, according to legend, linked to the Knights Templar. The foundation stone of Rosslyn Chapel was laid on St. Matthew's Day, September 21, 1446.
After Sir William died in 1484, the larger building he had planned was never completed. Rosslyn Chapel's founder is buried in the chapel's foundation. Today, Rosslyn Chapel still functions as a place of worship for the Scottish Episcopal Church.
We caught our bus on George Street, where all the busses have been diverted while Princes Street is torn up for the new tram system construction, getting off at the end of the short main street in Roslin, a typical village of grey row houses. Directly in front of the bus stop, perfect for waiting the hour until the chapel reopened, was
a most inviting Guest House / Cafè. Inside it was even more welcoming, simply ideal for a cozy light lunch and coffee.
Delighted to see our favorite Cullen Skink
(BTW, curious, I looked up the origin of this traditional soup and found that the name of this rich, tasty soup comes from the fishing village of Cullen, in Morayshire in Northern Scotland. "Skink" is a soup made originally from a shin of beef - in fact the word "skink" means soup or stew - but in this case, the main ingredient is smoked haddock with potatoes and onions. Finnan haddock is often called Finnan haddie, and is the traditional ingredient in the famous Edwardian breakfast dish of Kedgeree. Cullen Skink is sometimes called Smoked Haddock Chowder when served in bistros and restaurants.)
bisque and some fantastic sounding desserts on the blackboard menu, we enjoyed this typical meal before leaving for the short walk, down a country road, to the chapel.
this cute little rabbit scurried along the path and fields with us, all the way to the chapel
Due to extensive repair, it is impossible to get good photos of the exterior without the unsightly scaffolding or temporary roof covering. Our photos were limited to interior details and of the garden.
The Rosslyn Chapel is one of the most ornately-carved 15th century medieval stone chapels in all of Europe. The stone work is absolutely exquisite. Our guide illustrated numerous details and expounded on theories explaining the rich and mysterious iconography.
Of particular interest to Mar were the 'Musical' boxes. Among Rosslyn's many intricate carvings are a sequence of 213 cubes or boxes protruding from pillars and arches with a selection of patterns on them. It is unknown whether these patterns have any particular meaning attached to them — many people have attempted to find information coded into them, but no interpretation has yet proven conclusive.
One recent attempt to make sense of the boxes has been to interpret them as a musical score. The motifs on the boxes somewhat resemble geometric patterns seen in the study of cymatics. The patterns are formed by placing powder upon a flat surface and vibrating the surface at different frequencies. By matching these Chladni patterns with musical notes corresponding to the same frequencies, the father-and-son team of Thomas and Stuart Mitchell produced a tune which Stuart calls the Rosslyn Motet. While Mar doesn't go along with the Mitchell theory, she was nevertheless enthralled to be able to observe the "boxes" and to purchase an authoritative book on the subject. These enigmatic "boxes" are an often debated subject among early music musicologists and quite a source of fascination.
breathtaking examples of extraordinary medieval stone carvings - commonly considered the most exquisite stone work in all of Europe in that period
the "Apprentice Pillar"
striking rhododendrons in the garden
This unforgettable experience / day ended by going to the Tass Tavern on High Street for their Live Celtic Music night. We ate dinner there and very much enjoyed the atmosphere, the musicians...and of course, the traditional Celtic music.
Our evening punctuated a perfect day! Tomorrow we will be off to the Western Highlands....
