« Buona Mattina, Bologna | Main | The Apartment »

First Sunday in Bologna


The helpful staff at Hotel Porta San Mamolo stored my bags, and I checked out and took off on a beautiful, warm, late Sunday morning. I took a different route exploring streets and neighborhoods that were new to me. My first stop was Piazza San Domenico, and the adjoining piazza. I decided to take a peek before mass started.


San Domenico is the headquarters of the Dominican order, built between 1219-1243, and named after Saint Dominic. It contains the organ that Mozart studied on when he came to Bologna. I sat in the Chapel of the Rosary, and lit a candle for my mom.

Here is the beautiful frescoed ceiling:


Outside the church, in the piazza, are several monuments: a column with Saint Dominic, a column of the Madonna of the rosary, commemorating the end of the epidemic of plague, and a large raised tomb of Rolandino.




I continued walking to Via Castiglione and then took Via Cartoleria to Via Santo Stefano, ending at the Piazza San Stefano.


It was a busy Sunday in the piazza, and time for a glass of prosecco.


Perception is everything, isn't it?


I read, journaled, and chatted with a couple from Amsterdam. By 2p.m., I was hungry, and I decided pranzo would be my one meal of the day. I walked back to Drogheria della Rosa.

When I walked up to the door, about 20 people were seated outside the front of the restaurant. All tables were full. I asked for a table for uno. Emanuele, said he couldn't possibly seat me. I believed him, but asked "Perche no?", as I thought there was room inside. He laughed, and asked several people to move over and brought out another table and two chairs, squeezing me in (literally)! He poured me prosecco, and the waitress brought bread and a plate of antipasti: mortadella, culatello, and mozarella!


Since I was practically in their laps, I began speaking with the couple on my left, Roberto and Rosalia, a teacher and her husband from the Veneto. Throughout our meal, we chatted, and planned to get together when Brad and I visit the area in September. We exchanged emails and phone numbers. They were truly delightful!
Che buona fortuna!

Meanwhile, our host, Emanuel, was quite a character! He continued to pour himself and me, prosecco, even though I had just ordered a glass of wine. He told stories of his visit from "my governor", and brought out photos and a thank you from Arnold. He talked about Danny Divito's visit, and about all the music that was playing. Soon he had everyone singing. He asked why I was studying Italian, when I already spoke "so well". HA! He talked about his home in Matera, and was surprised I had visited there, then told EVERYONE we were "neighbors" as my mom's family was from Puglia. Let's just say, he was a lot of fun!

But back to the food! It made my "Top 10" list of Italy restaurants! My primi piatto was tortelli, stuffed with stracchino and squacquerone cheeses, then topped with a sauce of fiori di zucca (zucchini blossoms). Oh my! I was trying not to make loud groaning ecstasy noises or lick my empty plate!


Next came a filetto with balsamico, perfectly roasted potatoes, and slightly sauteed spinach. This is hands down, the best steak I have EVER had in Italy.


I passed on the limoncello or grappa, as well as dolci. Yes, I'll be back!!!

Here are my new amici with Emanuel on the far left of the photo.


I returned to the hotel to meet the apartment owner at 5:00, but more on that later...

Comments (10)

Mindy Smith:

wow! wow! wow! your pranzo looks amazing. I was making "loud groaning with ectasy" noises looking at the photos! Makes me think of my wonderful time there last May!! Great post to read first thing in the morning on an empty tummy.

Oh my! Oh my! I think I am going to gain weight just looking at your food photos! It looks fabulous!


What a beautiful Sunday, Palma -- and two of my favourite churches in Bologna.

I just turned to John and said-this is killing me! He said' what" and I answered "that I'm here and Palma is there doing all these fantastic things! Have a wonderful time.


What a great story! The owner of Drogheria is really quite the character, no? Your meal looks wonderful! (I am at work, counting the minutes to lunch, although lunch will be absolutely nothing like that!!)


What an awesome experience! Maybe that is THE place for the GTG!

OMG that tortelli looks so incredibly delicious! I have never eaten at Drogheria della Rosa. It is definitely going on my list.

I know just the route you took from Hotel Porta San Mamolo and have visited San Domenico the last two times I have visited Bologna. I did not know that Mozart studied on that organ.

Sounds like a wonderful day in Bologna!

Sounds like a fun day!

By the time the rest of us get there you'll know the entire city! Your challenge is to become best pals with the folks from downstairs.

Barb Cabot:

Food fabulous.OMG!


you know you are really Italian when you don't take no for an answer!

Post a comment

(If you haven't left a comment here before, you may need to be approved by the site owner before your comment will appear. Until then, it won't appear on the entry. Thanks for waiting.)

This page contains a single entry from the blog posted on May 23, 2010 5:31 PM.

The previous post in this blog was Buona Mattina, Bologna.

The next post in this blog is The Apartment.

Many more can be found on the main index page or by looking through the archives.

Powered by
Movable Type 3.33
© 2004 - 2014 Slow Travel