Ways to Travel: Random thoughts from a random mind

Following a long standing “first day in town” tradition we mis-read the map and went off in the wrong direction when looking for the Mercato del Erbe. But even when we go astray we find things of interest! This morning it was a wedding party outside of the city offices at Piazza Maggiore, with family and friends in attendance. Lots of little kids running around all dressed in their finest, a beautiful bride in a lovely gown, and a handsome groom. It was fun.

Wedding Party

Since we were right at Piazza Maggiore and the Piazza Nettuno, we decided to visit the Basilica of St. Petronius. It is a large church – originally planned to be larger than St. Peters in Rome. But it feels light and airy thanks to a simple, uncluttered interior. The pillars that define the nave are made of warm terracotta bricks, capped by stone capitals with an acanthus design, reaching up to graceful arched ceilings in an Italian Gothic style. There are fragments of early frescoes high on the walls, and a variety of religious art in the side chapels. Overall, it has a feeling of solidity, but is at the same time graceful.

After visiting the Basilica we wandered happily through the adjacent narrow streets for some time admiring the fruit and vegetable stalls, the sparklingly fresh fish in the fish markets, a the many varieties of pasta and the mouthwatering creations on display in the pasticcerie. We stopped for coffee at Eatily, and spent a little time browsing all the wonderful food items on display.

We then decided to visit the complex of churches known as the Complesso di S. Stefano. To get there we walked past an area of medieval arcades, with the supporting structure made of gnarled and darkened wooden piers. Of course, when we arrived at S. Stefano we realized that time and Italy wait for no tourists – it was fermata for lunch! So we decided when in Bologna, do as the Bolognese do – and we headed off on a side street looking for somewhere to sit and have a bite to eat. We found a small local bar/café with sidewalk tables, where the proprietor was more than happy to make us a lovely green salad to accompany our piadine and aqua minerale – for a total of under 10 euros. It was clearly a local hangout, and we sat and enjoyed the interaction of owners and customers.

Even after our relaxed lunch, there were still a couple of hours to fill before the church reopened, so we strolled along headed for dessert – at the via San Vitale location of Gelateria Gianni. Here we both decided we HAD to try the chocolate gelato – an amazingly rich, dark, almost black concoction of intense flavor. Incredibly rich, especially when paired with coffee (Bill) and Mascarpone (Judy) gelato.

We looked at the Due Torre, but in the heat of the afternoon, and considering the condition of our mature bodies, decided NOT to climb up, contenting ourselves with the knowledge that we could enjoy reading about the experience of others on Slow Travel. Conveniently nearby was Feltrinelli’s bookstore, where we were able to pass the time browsing the books – and where Bill picked up a Camillieri novel he had not yet read.

We then retraced our steps and arrived at S. Stefano shortly after it re-opened. What a magnificent complex of medieval places of worship – the seven churches date back over a thousand years! A sense of serenity and calm permeates the spaces, and we wandered for quite some time trying to take in the many diverse features of the ancient structures.

S. Stefano

By the time we had explored S. Stefano it was time to return to the hotel for a rest – but not without a few detours to window shop and look at restaurant menus. Aching feet and humid atmosphere made eating close to the hotel sound like a very good idea, so we opted for the Trattoria Mariposa, directly across the street from the hotel. Here we enjoyed a simple but tasty meal and enjoyed sharing the tiny dining room with a father and 6-7 yr. old daughter who were French, and a group of local friends apparently celebrating a birthday, with much conviviality. After our meal we strolled around the area to see what else was nearby – and discovered on a nearby street a square window cut into the wall that overlooked one of what was once a whole network of canals in Bologna.

We finished the evening with a stop at another recommended gelateria – the Gelateria delle Moline – which, at 10:30 at night was amazingly busy, with a steady stream of well dressed locals and not so locals coming to experience wonderful gelato. I had read in Matt’s article on Bologna that this place was known for its fruit flavors, and indeed, the limone (my own “benchmark” flavor) and the frutta di bosco were fantastic – not overly sweet, and bursting with flavor. Bill enjoyed a granita di caffe, which was one of several flavors on offer. We sat at sidewalk chairs and people watched – both at the gelateria and a small local bar across the street, where a totally different crowd assembled, beer bottles in hand, enjoying the warmth of the evening in the company of friends. A satisfying way to enjoy a pleasant day in Bologna.

Via delle Moline nightlife

Gelateria delle Moline