Bonnieux and the plain, from the Cafe de France in Lacoste
The wind is the Mistral. Local friends tell us that when the Mistral comes, it always stays an uneven number of days: one, three, five… Today is Day Three of the Mistral-- a much cooler day, though still beautifully sunny.
The wind blew even more fiercely last night. We closed the windows and fastened the metal shutters, but we could still hear the wind beating against the house. The cushions on the wicker furniture on the upstairs porch blew off the couch and chair, then lay huddled in a corner, waiting to be rescued. A potted plant blew off a second story windowsill, shattering on the ground below. We laid the pool umbrella under a chair after we noticed the large blow-up pool toys flat against the garden shed halfway across the yard.
This big stone house is built to withstand the wind—and it has for hundreds of years-- providing us shelter on the sunny back terrace as the Mistral whips past on either side. Most of the houses here are built with their main windows facing south, to provide shelter from the Mistral.
We stayed close to home today. I met a friend for coffee at Le Terrail in Bonnieux while Charley explored more of the village. For our upcoming trips in September we’ve decided he’ll be the “expert” on Bonnieux. He’s been studying the history of Bonnieux in a detailed book (in French) that we borrowed from the local library. This morning he matched the history with the village landmarks.
Meanwhile, I’m the designated resource on the neighboring village of Lacoste, which faces Bonnieux across the valley, just six kilometers by road. Lacoste is a much smaller village (400 people vs. 1400 in Bonnieux) with very little commercial activity—just a boulangerie, two café/bars, a restaurant, a car repair shop, some art galleries, and a few B&Bs. Half the village seems to be owned by an American art school—the Savannah School of Art and Design (SCAD), which brings students here for periods of studies several times a year. Combine the art school with the music/theater festival run by Pierre Cardin and the ruined castle of the Marquis de Sade (also owned by Monsieur Cardin), and Lacoste is a unique place indeed.
Charley, Kelly and I drove to Lacoste for lunch after our morning in Bonnieux, the first time I've been to Lacoste this summer. We parked near the church (12th century) and walked across the village on the cobblestone streets, joining a few tourists who were also walking and looking. Lacoste is a village to absorb... not a place to buy postcards.
A tiny street in Lacoste
We had lunch today at the Café de France, another of the Wood Family’s “Best Views in the Luberon” spots. The café terrace hangs off the side of the village, looking out across the beautiful plain with a dead-on view of Bonnieux on its hillside and a backdrop of the Claparèdes Plateau, the Petit Luberon and the Grand Luberon. With Lacoste’s eastern facing perspective, we were sheltered from the winds and enjoyed our omelettes and salads.
And then I was on my own. Charley and Kelly drove home while I stayed to wander the village. Lacoste seems almost frozen in time, with few indications of modern life. I climbed the tiny and steep ancient streets and then up through the ruins of the 11th century castle, finally reaching the plateau at the top. Progress has been made on the château’s restoration since we were here in March, and the castle is now much more extensively illuminated at night. Although the interior is private, visitors can still climb around the ruins, including the old moat. Somewhere in the château Pierre Cardin has what I'm sure is a most elegant residence-- but I didn't see him there today.
The Marquis de Sade's château in Lacoste
The Mistral was much stronger at the top of Lacoste, and I stood with both feet apart for balance. Amazingly, on the plain below I saw Charley and Kelly’s car turning down our driveway, though the house is hidden from view by a wooded hillside. The winds had cleared the skies and the views were clear and extensive... all the way to Apt. I circled the entire plateau and then skirted the fence enclosing the “carrières,” the old quarries that are now the unique venue for Pierre Cardin’s outdoor theatre.
I climbed back down through the village, trying to visit every street, noticing the many buildings marked with the art school’s signs. Most of the buildings are from the 16th and 17th century, though the oldest house dates back to the 9th century. At the tourist office I picked up some maps and other information and stuffed them in my small backpack. After six weeks in the constant company of my husband and daughter, it was a somewhat liberating feeling to be just in the company of myself.
Lacoste from the vineyards on my walk home
I walked home on a route I know well: down a rocky path to the plain, alongside the vineyards, past the old coaching inn, through the woods, up by the cherry orchards… about 30 minutes, walking briskly in the wind. I enjoyed my surroundings and the time alone. I enjoyed this simple day and the comfort of walking home in a place I know well.
