I’ve spent about a year in Provence over the past four years, but this is the first time here on my own. Actually, this is the first time I’ve ever traveled to Europe alone. I’ve traveled many, many times on business alone, and back in the days when I was single, occasionally I added a few personal days to a couple of business trips. I’ve been to a health spa for a week by myself three times, a very comfortable solo vacation. But I’ve never been in Europe alone. This is a very different experience for me, and I’m more than a little apprehensive.
My trip to Provence was uneventful-- just very long. It was 25 hours from the time I left home to the time I arrived at my B&B here in Aix-en-Provence. I flew Continental, through Newark to Paris—the least expensive option at a time of year that is incredibly expensive. I chatted with a very nice woman from North Carolina while waiting in Newark. We were surprised to discover our family trips were just the reverse. She was going to France to meet up with her husband and daughter who were finishing a French course in Sancerre, and in three weeks my husband and daughter will fly over to meet up with me after my French course. On the plane I sat next to a very interesting man who is a dean at the law school at the University of Pennsylvania, the school where I got my MBA. He was on his way to Russia for an alumni meeting.
I didn’t sleep much on the plane, but I never do. The worse part of the trip was the long wait between my arrival and my train to Aix-en-Provence—over four hours. It was very difficult to stay awake, and I shifted to various waiting spots in the station just to keep alert. I did sleep a little on the train. At the Aix TGV station, I wandered around a bit before I finally discovered where to catch the navette (shuttle), but then it was an easy trip to the Gare Routière (bus station) in Aix. I had planned to try to get a taxi from there, but it was horribly busy on a Friday afternoon and I never saw any taxis. I ended up walking to my B&B, about 15 minutes away. This was when I was very glad I had packed light!
I spent my first two nights at a chambre d’hôtes—La Maison de Carlotta—in the beautiful Quartier Mazarin, just a block or so from the fountain with the four dolphins. The B&B is actually a large two-story apartment in a big old building, the home of a delightful woman named Aline and her equally delightful daughter Carlotta. Aline has two B&B rooms, each with a private bath on the upper floor of the building, with the surprise of a tiny outdoor terrace just off the landing. Aline speaks very good English and was so much fun to visit with. Her home is both elegant and friendly, decorated with antiques. This has been a pleasant place to begin my stay in Aix.
La Fontaine des quatre dauphins
On Saturday morning I walked down the Cours Mirabeau to La Rotunde, the big fountain surrounded by a very busy traffic circle. I was very happy to find the once-a-year pottery market just setting up along the Cours. I loved this market when it came to Bonnieux the Easter weekend we lived here. I walked up and down between the stands several times, and finally bought two small gifts for Kelly’s birthday. I also stopped in the Tourist Office. We’ve been to Aix maybe ten times, but always just for the day. Now I’m going to be here for three weeks, and I really want to get to know the city.
At le marché de potiers
My ultimate destination was the downtown Europcar office. I rented a car today, which I will use this weekend and next weekend. Today I actually had a little business project. I drove to a village about 15 minutes north of of Aix to meet with a group of American expatriates who are working on a huge international scientific project based here in Provence. I’ll be developing some training on cross-cultural communications for the staff based in America—most of whom travel regularly to Provence—and I think also developing some resources for other people who will come to live in Provence. It's really exciting to find an opportunity to work on something that blends my professional background with my passion for Provence.
I got back to Aix around 3 pm and parked my car in the underground garage at Place Carnot. (I do not like trying to park in the small spaces in these underground garages, but I feel very good about my ability to drive here in Aix.) Then I walked just a few blocks up the “péripherique” (the roads that circle the center of Aix) to check out the location of my school for Monday and then down into the heart of the city. I had a beer at a café on the square by the Palais de Justice and walked through the little Passage Agard to the Cours Mirabeau. There’s an English bookstore on the Place des Quatre Dauphins, and I knew I needed something to read in the evenings. They have a much larger used book section than the last time I visited, and I got two long books that should last me for a while.
I went out to dinner by myself tonight. (On Friday night I just bought a pizza at a street stand and took it back to the little terrace at my B&B.) I picked a small place recommended by Aline-- La Brocherie-- just a short walk on a very quiet street. I treated myself to a nice meal—an aperitif, followed by a three course meal and a glass of wine. I wish I could say that I loved the experience of dining alone, but I missed my husband and daughter. I don’t like eating at a public place alone! But at least I was there enjoying a very good meal and not back at my room alone, eating a baguette sandwich.
Tomorrow I’ll leave Aline’s B&B at 7:15 am and drag my manageable suitcase down the cobblestone street to my car in the parking garage. I’m taking a little group to the Luberon. These are four women from the meeting yesterday, just here in Provence on a couple-days business trip. They want to visit a market, so we’ll go to L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, and then I’ll try to give them some flavor of the Luberon in the afternoon. In the evening when I return to Aix I’ll go to the home where I’m boarding for the next three weeks. The apartment is just adjacent to the parking garage, so I won’t have far to go.
It is different traveling without Charley and Kelly. I miss them so much and I'd definitely prefer to be with them, but there's something quite liberating and fulfilling knowing that I can travel on my own.
