Our family has been in Provence now for about four weeks: housesitting, hiking, sightseeing, visiting with friends, and enjoying the rustic Provençal food and wine. Our summer idyll is coming to an end, though, with Kathy and Kelly returning home to America for the start of a new school year for both—Kelly the student and Kathy the professor.
Since they have planned a mother-daughter foray into Paris on the way home—and the fact that I wouldn’t see Kelly for about seven weeks, it seemed a good idea to have a father-daughter time, at least a day, before they departed.
One of Kelly’s eighth grade English assignments was to read Alexander Dumas’ “The Count of Monte Cristo.” She loved the book and convinced me that I should also read it. It’s wonderful. It’s quite obvious why books like this are called “classics.” A crucial part of the plot is centered in Marseille and its island prison, the Château d’If.
So Marseille and the Château d’If it was. A visit to France’s oldest and second-largest city; combined with a literary element, seemed the ideal father-daughter outing. The fact that Marseille is a beautiful city on the stunning Mediterranean Sea made it all the better.
The Château d’If
The Vieux Port, the waterfront heart of Marseille, is as easily approached and navigated as a small country town. We were somewhat familiar with Marseille and the Vieux Port from a family day-trip this past March. Unfortunately, the Mistral winds were fierce the day of our visit, and the boats to Château d’If weren’t running. We still enjoyed our visit very much. This time we checked the weather forecast before we left home.
We parked at the huge Hôtel de Ville carpark and strolled the waterfront looking at boats and watching people. Kelly took us directly to the tourism office and pointed out that the “city pass” was a good investment. We bought two tickets at 20 euro each. This provided for our ferry ride to the island where Château d’If looks much like a French version of Alcatraz. Like Alcatraz, Château d’If is surrounded by broad stretches of rough water and is supposed to be escape-proof. Dumas’ fictional hero Edmond Dantes, also known as the Count of Monte Cristo, is the only one ever to escape. I’m not sure if a fictional character usually counts in the official record, but it makes for a great story.
On the island (photo by Charley)
Like Alcatraz, this island is supposed to be escape-proof (photo by Kelly)
The château is given over entirely to Dumas’ character and story. Kelly enjoyed the whole thing enormously and felt that we had been thrust right into the very action of this classic. I even have a picture of my sweet daughter’s face peering through the barred window of the cell where the fictional Dantes spent 14 years.
Kelly in Dantes' cell (photo by Charley)
Charley also posed in the cell (photo by Kelly)
Inside the château (photo by Kelly)
Our literary pursuits satisfied, we were off to another of Kelly’s interests: architecture. Our city passes got us on the little tourist train that climbed up to the Notre Dame de la Garde, Marseille’s beautiful cathedral perched on the highest promontory in the city. The interior was incredibly ornate, and Kelly made dozens of pictures of the cathedral,
The top of the beautiful cathedral (photo by Kelly)
Inside Notre Dame de la Garde (photo by Kelly)
Another view of the ornate interior (photo by Kelly)
I was awed by the view. To the south lay the Mediterranean with its stark coastal islands and in a wide arc from west to north to east spread Marseille, truly looking like a gem in an azur-blue setting.
Just part of the spectacular view from Notre Dame de la Garde (photo by Kelly)
After taking a bus back to the Vieux Port waterfront, we capped the day with the quintessential father-daughter activity—we enjoyed a lunch of burgers, fries and cokes at the French version of Burger King, called “Quick.”
After buying Kathy a little gift, we retrieved our car from the parking garage and started the hour-and-a-half drive back home to the Luberon. Kelly was a bit quiet on the drive home, and I’d loved to read her mind, to know her thoughts. Had she enjoyed our day together as much as I had? I hope so. I think so.
I glanced over at this area of unusual quietness to see just a hint of a smile. I had my answer.
Comments (1)
Charley and Kelly ~
Sounds like you both had quite a special day, as reflected in your beautiful photos. That cathedral is magnificent. How lucky you both are to spend such a quality time at such a quality place, together.
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August 6, 2007 10:03 AM
Posted on August 6, 2007 10:03