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Edna's Dordogne Restaurant List

Edna from NY

We found it very hard to have a bad meal. I did a lot of research before and also received recommendations from local people. St. Cirq from the message board was a great resource as was Colleen at Simply Perigord. This was duck and goose heaven - pates, confits, foie gras, magrets. Duck or goose fat was used for everything from sauteing potatoes to flavoring soup. You do not go for a physical for at least 6 months upon returning home! The local wines (Cahors and Bordeaux) are great.

Tremolat: Le Vieux Logis and Le Bistrot d'en Face

tel: 05 53 22 80 06, closed Tuesday and Wednesday lunch
These restaurants are part of Le Vieux Logis hotel (Relais and Chateau). The former is their more formal restaurant in a former tobacco-drying barn but we dined outside on their beautiful garden terrace overlooking the pool; the latter is down the road and is a very homey and comfortable restaurant. The food in both was outstanding.

La Roque-Gageac: Le Plume d'Oie

tel: 05 53 29 57 05 Closed lunch in August
Excellent light Perigordian specialties in a pretty room with big windows overlooking the Dordogne.

Domme: L'Esplanade

tel: 05 53 28 31 41 Closed Monday and November - February
Charming restaurant done in blues and yellows or on the terrace overlooking the Dordogne. Some of the richest food in all Perigord is served here. We had lunch here one Sunday and did not eat dinner that evening. It was wonderful!

St. Cyprien: Les Ecuries de la Passee (on the road to Mouzens)

tel: 05 53 29 46 73 Closed Sunday evening and Monday
This was recommended to us by Guy Weir, a fabulous artist that we discovered in Pechbouthier the last time we were in this region. He creates incredible water colors and you can see his work in his atelier. We now own 2! The restaurant is very eclectic in that the walls are filled with local artists work. The food was quite good. It was filled with locals.

Monpazier: Restaurant La Bastide

tel: 05 53 22 60 59 Closed Monday off season and 15 January - 1 March
Located in a traditional stone house with beamed ceilings. The walls are filled with the chef's framed diplomas and prizes. There are set menus that showcase the down-to-earth, straight forward style of cooking. Very tasty!

Fraysinnet-le-Gelat: Ferme-Auberge de la Serpt (near Fraysinnet-le-Gelat)

tel: 05 65 36 66 15 Open daily for lunch and dinner year round except Monday
This was an interesting and filling experience. This is a farm whose main business is producing foie gras, confits, pates, and the many other duck and goose specialties of the southwest. We even were able to go into the barn and see the ducks and goose in their pens. Quack! Quack! Every course is duck or goose related, from duck soup to duck sausage to confit de canard. All comes with the most delicious potatoes fricasseed in duck fat until crispy and sprinkled with garlic and parsley. Allow 3 - 4 hours for this feeding frenzy!

Brantome: Les Freres Charbonnel

tel: 05 53 05 70 15, closed Sunday eve and Monday off season, and 15 November - 15 December and part of February
We sat out on the flowery terrace watching the Dronne River and the boats going up and down. There is also a large glass-walled dining room. This was a Sunday lunch for us. We took a break here from duck and goose and indulged ourselves with oysters, fresh prawns and salmon. They had an incredible selection of wines. Their dessert menu is hard to turn down. It's filled with a long list of sorbets, ice creams, sundaes, fresh fruit, many other more elaborate home-made temptations.

Les Eyzies-de-Tayac: Moulin de la Beaune

tel: 05 53 06 94 33
This is an old mill that's been converted to a hotel with a fine restaurant. The menu was very creative using local ingredients and the setting was beautiful. The water wheel still works.

Lalinde: La Metairie (towards Mauzac)

tel: 05 53 22 50 47, closed from 1 November - 31 March
This restaurant is in an old stone house on beautiful grounds. The dining room is small and cozy but elegant. The food was sublime.

La Bugue: Les Trois A's

tel: 05 53 08 41 57, closed Tuesday and Wednesday and 15 February - 15 March
This restaurant specializes in St Jacques with truffles which was very good. The ambience is like being in a comfortable living room.

Bordeaux: La Tupina

6 rue Porte-de-la-Monnaie, tel: 05 56 91 56 37
We went into Bordeaux for the day when we decided that we needed a "big city" fix and ate at this highly recommended unpretentious restaurant with incredible food. Upon entering you walk by a huge stone hearth where the food is grilled. We had the best roast chicken and potatoes sauteed in duck fat (of course!) and shallots. Across the street the owner also has a grocery store with wonderful products.

 

I just got very hungry so this is the end!!!

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