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Aix-en-Provence: Les Deux Garcons

Cours Mirabeau , Phone: 04 42 26 00 51

Reviewed by: kaydee from TN, review #1637

When: 2005

Classy and famous cafe on the beautiful Cours Mirabeau. Sidewalk terrace or indoor dining room. Good for morning coffee, afternoon drink, lunch or dinner.

Les Deux Garçons, photo by Becky Verastegui

Charley and I had lunch here with two American friends on a chilly morning in February. We opted to eat on the terrace, covered with plastic and warmed by big (and very hot) heaters. Some people were enjoying coffee or drinks out on the sidewalk terrace, despite the chill. We had a wonderful meal, though we felt the service had a bit of an "attitude," something we didn't often encounter in Provence.

Les Deux Garçons is one of the most famous restaurants in all of Provence, dating back to 1792. This is one of those places were lots of famous people used to eat: Cezanne, Zola, Picasso, even Churchill. Now it is an "in" place, where people to go see and be seen and to watch the activity on the wide sidewalks of the Cours Mirabeau.

The people at the table next to us (right next to us!) ordered the choucroute (an Alsatian dish involving various cuts of pork, sausages, potatoes and sauerkraut. They got a heaping platter that looked fabulous, though definitely not Provençal! We were all very happy with our meals too: huge scallops served with rice, a mouth-watering piece of salmon, and a veal stew that was the plat du jour.

Our friends absolutely loved the experience. They also picked up the check, so I have no idea what our meal cost. Charley and I probably wouldn't have eaten here by ourselves, just because of the price, but it was a great place to eat with friends. I would definitely recommend the experience, ambiance and food to visitors to the beautiful city of Aix.

For photos of the restaurant and some of our food, see this short photo album: Slowtrips

Reviewed by: Doug Phillips from Canada, review #1561

When: 2005

Located on the beautiful cours Mirabeau in Aix, our lunch on the terrace of this well-known brasserie on a perfect September day was a memorable occasion.

The post-mistral weather - warm and sunny with a fresh breeze - was perfect for enjoying a long leisurely lunch on the "terrace" on the cours Mirabeau.

The service was friendly and efficient. I had been writing the first draft of my Trip Report at a small table using a coffee as an excuse for taking up the space. My wife joined me for lunch. We had to seek another table, one prepared for lunch. The restaurant was very busy, with only one available table. I asked the "boss", as the waiters referred to her, if she could save the table for a short time until we were ready. "Of course" she replied - and turned away several other couples in the next few minutes.

Our lunch stretched over almost two hours. We were in no hurry as much because of the setting as the food. I had a "Formule Duo". The first part consisted of a wire basket full of vegetables and an egg, accompanined by "Anchoiade", an anchovy paste. My main course was "Foie de Veau Persiliade". My wife had "Saumon Froid". Both were very good. We had a 50cl bottle of "Ma Couleur" with our lunch and ended with "deux cafes". The total was €61,40.

Les Deux Garcons has been in business since 1792. It will most likely stil be there when you get to Aix. We highly recommend the restaurant - and make sure you choose a nice day.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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