> SlowTrav > France > Restaurants > Reviews > Paris

07 ARR: L’Ami Jean

27 Rue Malar , Phone: 1 47 05 86 89
www.lamijean.fr

Reviewed by: AndrewG from USA, review #4017

When: 2012

When we entered, we found a noisy, very crowded, downright boisterous place and yet, despite a general distaste for crowds, we loved it.

This Basque-inspired “bistronome” is a highly-touted place, the subject of much food magazine, food blog, foodie hype about its “cuisine bistronomique.” When we entered, we found a noisy, very crowded, downright boisterous place, a rock and roll party with a frenzied atmosphere of barely controlled chaos; and yet, despite a general distaste for crowds, we loved it. Once we were packed into our seats, and made friends with our very close neighbors, it became obvious that magic must be happening in the small kitchen in the back (I have seen it described as the size of a crèpe stand). Waiters were bustling by with aromatic and heavily laden plates and bowls, making you twist your neck this way and that to see and attempt to discern what some lucky diner had ordered. Despite the hustle and bustle, the waiters are friendly, relatively patient, very informative, and more than willing to help you decide what to order.

We enjoyed immensely my pitcher full of very green vegetable soup, a bowl of mussels, a humongous and perfectly prepared pork chop, and a bowl of mushrooms and scallops in a very complex broth. The chef/owner, Stéphane Jégo, is what I’d call a flavor maniac; this is earthy and not subtly flavored cooking. But, it is fine cooking and truly delicious. And, allow me to repeat what likely has been said by everyone else who has been, the rice pudding (riz au lait) here, with its salted butter caramel sauce, and its absurdly fluffy creaminess, served in a bowl so large that it should signal it is meant to be shared (ooops, oh well), is insanely good and should not be missed. We will return.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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