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Slow Travel Google Map: Italy, Rome

Author: Pauline
Notes: August 2006. Highlights of Rome, Italy. This map is a group effort from several SlowTravelers - Pauline, Andrew, Stella.

Churches

San Clemente

4th Century Church commemorates the fourth Pope St Clement. Beautiful Mosaics. Upper level dates from the 12th century, but the original 4th century Basilica and a pagan Mithraeum can be visited on the lower levels. (dragonpat)

San Giovanni Laterno

Founded by the Emperor Constantine in the 4th century AD. First home of the Popes. Current appearance is 17th century due to repeated fires. Contains the Holy stairs that St Helena brought back from Jerusalem. Contains reliquaries with the heads of St.Peter and St Paul. (dragonpat)

Sant'Ivo alla Sapienza (SV)

Church with a beautiful spire and courtyard, near Piazza Navona. Borromini, 1642 - 1650. Not always open. We went inside on a Sunday.

Santa Maria S Minvera

Santa Maria Sopra Minvera: Gothic Church with lovely frescos by Filippino Lippi, student of Botticelli. Statue of Christ Bearing the Cross started by Michelangelo. Tomb of Fra Angelico in the floor of the church. (dragonpat)

Santa Maria del Popolo

Beside the Porta del Popolo, in the Piazza del Popolo, is Santa Maria del Popolo, a Renaissance church with frescoes by Pinturicchio and a chapel by Raphael.

St. Peters (SV)

St. Peters (San Pietro), in Vatican City, is the center of the Roman Catholic faith. It was built in the 1500s on top of the remains St. Peters 2nd century tomb. Michelangelo's famous statue "Pieta" (1499) is on display in the church (inside front doors and to the right). You can arrange tours of the excavations under the church - Vatican Scai Tours. You can go to the top of the Cupola for a view of Rome (not recommended if you don't like small spaces - you walk up a very narrow long staircase inside the cupola - not much air, nose to tail with people).

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Restaurants/Cafes

'Gusto

'Gusto is a mini-empire not far from Piazza del Popolo, at Piazza Augusto Imperatore 9, and Via della Frezza. There is an upscale restaurant, an osteria, a cheese shop, an enoteca, a pizzeria, and a fantastic kitchenware emporium. I highly recommend a visit to the emporium - great gifts for yourself, and afterwards you can try at least one of the food offerings.

Agata e Romeo

Agata e Romeo, Via Carlo Alberto 45. 06-4466115: This would be my pick for a dressed-up, special dinner in Rome. It is a beautiful restaurant with a creative, refined menu that is a blend of both the old and the new. There are a la carte offerings, as well as a special tasting menu. Let them guide you with your wine and you will not be disappointed. I would make a reservation here, for sure. It is the kind of place that is so special, it makes you feel special too. Well-deserving of a Michelin star. (Stella)

Al Settimo Gelo

Al Settimo Gelo, via Vodice, 21/a, in Prati; I had the best strawberry gelato, ever, there. (Stella)

Antico Forno M Roscioli

Please visit Antico Forno Marco Roscioli, on Via dei Chiavari, near the corner of Via dei Guibbonari. The bakery has the best pizza bianca and pizza marinara you will ever try. They have an entoeca/restaurant a few meters away on Via dei Guibbonari, where Via dei Chiavari meets it. You can have an excellent, full meal in the back, or just some wine with cheese and cured meats. This is a great place to get some cured meats, cheeses and wines to take home as well. (Stella)

Bar Farnese

If you are near the Campo di Fiori, try Bar Farnese, on Via dei Baullari; they are the sweetest people, ever, and their cornetti are always fresh and delicious. (Stella)

Buccone

Buccone, Via di Ripetta, 19-20 is a restaurant and a wine-bar, very inviting with tall stacks of bottles encased in dark wood. It is near the Piazza del Popolo, and is a great place for an incredible selection of wine and a mixed platter of meats and cheeses after a visit to the Galleria Borghese; walk through the park, down to the Piazza and reward yourself with some relaxing time here. (Stella)

Checchino dal 1887

Checchino dal 1887, Via di Monte Testaccio 30, 06-5743816: This Testacccio restaurant needs to be on your list, too! They specialize in traditional Roman cooking as well as the dishes of the "quinto quarto" of the cow -the intestines, tails, feet, and other interesting parts you may or may not be familar with. Don't let that put you off...they have a huge menu with something for everyone. After you order, relax and take not of the special touches of service around you, especially with the wine. (Stella)

Checco er Carrettiere

Checco er Carettiere, Via Benedetta, 10, 06-5817018: Opened in 1935, this is one of the most beloved trattorias in the neighborhood, despite its renown. It is in the heart of friendly Trastevere, a comfy respite from the bustling, narrow streets that surround it. This proudly Roman place aims to honor the cuisine of the common man of the city, so expect the cooking to be heart-warming as well as belly-filling. Anything fried is really, really good. Nice wine list, too! (Stella)

Cul de Sac

Cul de Sac, Piazza del Pasquino, 73, is my favorite Roman wine bar. Wine is crammed into every available inch of space, and the knowledge of the staff is apparent as they guide you through their selections. The food is quite good too! I could spend hours and hours there. In fact, I have spent hours and hours there. (Stella)

Da Lucia

Da Lucia, Vicolo del Mattonato 2b, 06-5803601: Da Lucia is very old trattoria on a tiny, crumbling street in Trastevere, always hopping with excitement and activity. Diners here run the gamut; tourists mingle with neighborhood folks, young and old alike. The food is simple but excellent, and they are especially known for perfect Pasta all Gricia: guanciale, pepper and cheese. You definitely need a reservation; I was turned away without one on a Saturday night - duh. (Stella)

Gelateria Giolitti

Giolitti, at Via degli Uffici del Vicario 40, not far from the Pantheon. This is a must-visit stop, not only for the great gelato, but for the bustling activity around you. (Stella)

Gelateria San Crispino

San Crispino, Via della Pannetteria 42, not far from the Trevi Fountain. They want you to enjoy their exquisite gelato in the proper context, and will not mix flavors that don't go well together. Try the ginger-honey, it is sublime. (Stella)

Hostaria da Nerone

Hostaria da Nerone, Via delle Terme di Tito 96, 06-4817952: If you are anywhere near the Colosseo, this is your choice for a great Roman meal. I always want pasta, pasta and more pasta here, especially the Spaghetti alle Vongole. (Stella)

Il Sanpietrino

Il Sanpietrino, Piazza Costaguti 15, 06-68806471: This family-operated restaurant is great choice for a cozy dinner, just fancy enough to feel special, but still comfortable. The restaurant is at its best when serving honest, traditional food, but there are modern touches to the menu that can be surprisingly good. The seafood offerings are not to be missed. (Stella)

La Pigna

La Pigna, Piazza della Pigna, 06-6787993 and 06-6785555: This restaurant is a true gem and totally unknown by the tourist crowd; I am almost afraid to share it with anyone, so please keep it a secret! I had one of my best meals ever in life here, with a friend who lives in the neighborhood. Don't miss the antipasti, and let them choose for you; if puntarelle are in season, go for it! (Stella)

La Sagrestia

La Sagrestia, Via del Seminario 89, 06 6797581: I love this place and always go here for my Roman pizza fix. There is never a wait, the pizza is fantastic and the setting is sweet and simple. The food here is good too, they do a nice crispy artichoke, and you can get a small steak or some simple chicken dishes. (Stella)

Myosotis

Myosotis, Via della Vaccarella, 3/5 06-6865554: I had such a wonderful meal here two years ago, I can close my eyes and still remember the grilled veal sweetbreads, drizzled with olive oil and a few drops of balsamico. They have a great wine list and really nice service, and are in a lively piazza that is great for people-watching, if you choose to sit outside. (Stella)

Obika

Obika, Piazza Firenze, corner of Via dei Prefetti 06-6832630: This is a pretty cool place to worship all things mozzarella di bufala. The setting is funky and modern, and you can sit at the bar to have a small meal or plant at a table for a mozzarella tasting menu. (Stella)

Osteria del Gallo

Osteria del Gallo, Vicolo di Montevecchio 27, 06-6873781: This is a charming, unassuming, classic Roman trattoria, tucked away on a quiet street away from the hustle and bustle of Piazza Navona. Try to get a table outside. The chef here is very sweet and enthusiastic - he came out of the kitchen to talk about my order, customizing things for a solo diner. The service is warm and friendly. (Stella)

Piperno

Piperno, Via Monte de'Cenci 9, 06-68806629: This fabulous restaurant is not sitting on its laurels, despite its popularity. This is my pick for classic Jewish fare, especially the heavenly Carciofi alla Giudea. If the weather is nice, eat outside. Select a nice bottle of wine, and order multiple courses to share, and the meal will become epic. The waiters here are very knowledgeable, so take their advice, let them pamper you, and don't miss dessert. (Stella)

Pizza Re' (Via Oslavia)

Pizza Re' (Via Oslavia): The original Pizza Re'is in Naples, and is considered one of the best Pizzerias in Italy. They have 2 restaurants in Rome, this one is on Via Oslavia, which is the bigger of the two, but a bit further from the touristy areas. Tourists don't generally come here, so don't expect English. It is usually packed (full of Romans and transplanted Napolitani), so arrive expecting a wait. It is worth it. They feature classic Pizza Napoliatna, which is hard to find outside of Naples.

What to order: Get the classic 'Pizza Re''. It is to die for!. For apps, go for 'Fritto Misto'. (Michael - Soriano)

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Pizza Re' (Via Rispetta)

Pizza Re' (Via Rispetta): The original Pizza Re' is in Naples, and is considered one of the best Pizzerias in Italy. They have 2 restaurants in Rome, this one is on Via Rispetta, which is the smaller of the two. It is very close to Piazza del Popolo and Piazza di Spagna. It is usually packed, so arrive expecting a wait. It is worth it. They feature classic Pizza Napoliatna, which is hard to find outside of Naples.

What to order: Get the classic 'Pizza Re''. It is to die for!. For apps, go for 'Fritto Misto'. (Michael - Soriano)

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Pizzeria San Calisto

Pizzeria San Calisto, Piazza San Calisto, 9: If you are going to have pizza in Trastevere, go here. It is a no-frills place with excellent pizza, antipasti, salads and snacks, and beer on tap to boot! Sitting outside in nice weather is lots of fun. I am not giving you the phone number because you should never call a pizzeria. They are too busy to answer the phone. (Stella)

Re' Cafe

The people from Pizza Re opened this more upscale place a few years ago that is more restaurant than pizzeria (but they still offer their famous pizza). This one is right in Piazza Augusto Imperatore, right next door to Alfredo (The place credited with Fettuccine Alfredo - which is a classic hardcore tourist trap). It is very close to Piazza del Popolo and Piazza di Spagna. It is usually packed, so arrive expecting a wait. It is worth it. They feature classic Pizza Napoliatna, which is hard to find outside of Naples.

What to order: Get the classic 'Pizza Re''. It is to die for!. For apps, go for 'Fritto Misto'. (Michael - Soriano)

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Ristorante Montevecchio

Ristorante Montevecchio, Piazza Montevecchio, 22/a 06-6861319: This tiny restaurant has inventive takes on Roman classics in a lovely, intimate setting. Everything here is done with great care and attention to detail. Be sure to make a reservation here; the dining room is the size of a postage stamp. (Stella)

Ristorante Santa Lucia

Ristorante Santa Lucia, Largo Febo, 06-8802427: This is my pick for a great seafood meal. The pastas are perfect, grilled scampi to die for, and lovely whole, roasted fish. It has a fantastic outdoor seating area, in the middle of the square, next to the pretty, ivy-covered Hotel Raphael. Twinkling lights are all around and there is plenty of lively people-watching. (Stella)

Tavernetta Sistina

Two or three doors up the Via Sistina from Piazza Barbarini toward the Spanish Steps, on the right. The food here is not special, and is priced as though it were! The service is surly, unless you actually get the owner, who hawks customers at the front door and greets and seats customers.

The attaction is the owner himself, I guess: a robust, outgoing, Pavaroti-esque character, who sings opera throughout the dining room and sometimes throughout most of the evening....and he takes requests! It's not a dinner show, but it is a hoot nonetheless. Be warned, however - do not go here expecting particularly good food or fair prices or service with a smile. (Jeff H from NH)

Tazza d'Oro

Tazza d'Oro, a famous caffe near the Pantheon. Order and pay at the register, then go to the bar and put your receipt on the counter (weigh it down with a small coin). The espresso is magnificent! Buy coffee beans to bring home (or pick them up at their shop at the Rome airport - and have a last espresso before you leave).
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Hands-down, the best coffee in Rome in my opinion is at Tazza D'Oro, right by the Pantheon. Others will tell you St. Eustachio, but I do not agree. (Stella)

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Trattoria Monti

Trattoria Monti, Via di San Vito, 13a, 06-4466573, Trattoria Monti has been discovered by tourists in a big, big way. At lunch time, they wait outside for the door to open and can't seem to sit down fast enough. Why? They have heard about the warm, friendly service and fantastic menu that features specialties from Marche. A super-nice family owns and operates this special restaurant; one of the handsome sons will likely wait on you. Don't miss the terrific house Verdicchio. If you want to have dinner here, make a reservation for sure. (Stella)

Vinando

Vinando, Piazza Margana 23, 06-69200741: I love this enoteca and restaurant, for many reasons. It is always open, from 10 AM to 1:00 AM, so it is a never-fail choice at odd times of the day. The menu is huge. You can have a number of small plates with your wine - yummy things to spread on toasted bread, platters of cheeses and cured meats, delicious salads and antipasti, fantastic pastas and secondi. Late at night, you may even catch the owner playing the piano and belting out a tune. (Stella)

Vino Garage

Vino Garage, Via di Monte Giordano, 63, not far from Piazza Navona, is a new hot spot. They highlight sparkling wines and hand-cut proscuitto from various regions of Italy, and make great aperitivi, plus there are other noshes and wines to try. (Stella)

Volpetti

Volpetti, Via Marmorata 47, 06-5742352: Ok, not a restaurant, but a fantastic food shop that is legendary in Rome and well worth the trip to the neighborhood. Operated by two brothers, both butchers from Norcia in Umbria, you will find the best cured meats in the city, fantastic cheeses, excellent prepared foods, and plenty of advice on how to enjoy it all properly. Fantastico! (Stella)

Monuments

Ara Pacis

One of the most famous monuments of ancient Rome. Commemorial altar inaugurated in 9 BC by the first Emperor Augustus. The reliefs are a stunning example of the highest quality classical sculture. The reliefs feature the imperial family and are of immense historical importance. (dragonpat)

Castel Sant'Angelo (SV)

A massive fortress on the Vatican side of the Tiber River. The main part was built in AD 139 as a mausoleum for Emporer Hadrian, but many things have been added over the centuries. There is a corridor from here to the Vatican, the Vatican Corridor, built in 1277 as an escape route for the Pope. You can tour this building.

Colosseum (SV)

The Colosseum from Ancient Rome, built in AD 72. Gladiator fights, wild animal fights and more took place here. You can walk in the seating area and look down to the Colosseum floor.

Mausoleum of Augustus

Major Monument of ancient Rome. First of the circular monumental tombs in Rome. The tomb of the first emperor Augustus and his family. (dragonpat)

Pantheon (SV)

My favorite building in the world. When I am in Rome, I walk by or go in every day (no entrance fee). Built by the Emporer Hadrian in AD 118 - 125 to replace an earlier temple built by Marcus Agrippa. The rotunda's height and diameter are the same: 140 feet. There is a hole in the center of the dome (the oculus) which lets in the sunshine, rain and sometimes snow. The artist Raphael is buried here. Caffes, restaurants and hotels line the Piazza della Rotunda in front of the Pantheon.

Roman Forum (SV)

These are the remains of Ancient Rome. You can walk the same streets, see the ruins of their market, go into restored buildings. You don't have to go to Pompeii to find Ancient Rome - it is right here in the center of modern Rome. Marker is at the entrance to the Roman Forum.

Museums

Vatican Museums

Marker is at the entrance to the museums. There is frequently a long line to this museum and it can get very crowded inside. Try to visit off season. There is lots to see here, but the most famous is the Sistine Chapel. You have to go through all the museums to get to the Sistine Chapel at the end, but it is worth the wait.

Squares

Piazza Navona (SV)

Large central piazza in the center of historic Rome. Beautiful central fountain, Fountain of Four Rivers (Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi), by Bernini, has an ancient Egyptian obelisk. Beautiful buildings and churches surround the piazza. Stop at the caffe Tre Scalini for a Tartufo ice cream dessert - it was invented here.

Piazza Sant' Eustachio

A beautiful small piazza with a church, the famous Caffe Sant'Eustachio and a good restaurant. We had an apartment overlooking this piazza for 2 weeks in 2003 - a wonderful location in the center of Rome.

Piazza del Popolo (SV)

This is my favorite piazza in Rome. The obelisk in the center was brought to Ancient Rome from Egypt. The Porta del Popolo, the gate at the end of the piazza, is where the Ancient Roman road, the Via Flamina enters Rome (it connected Rome to the Adriatic coast). Beside the Porta is Santa Maria del Popolo. Matching churches from the 1600s are at the other end of the Piazza on either side of Via del Corso, a main shopping street. There are famous caffes on the Piazza, on either side of the churches. This is a wonderful Piazza to walk through.

Piazza di Spagna (SV)

The Piazza di Spagna is a large piazza at the end of the luxury shopping area, Via Condotti. The Spanish Steps (Baroque), take you up from the Piazza to the edge of the Borghese Gardens, the Trinita dei Monti, a 16th century church, and the 5 star Hassler hotel. These steps are a meeting place for tourists and young people and the area can be crowded and lively. The Keats-Shelley museum is beside the steps (Keats died in this house in 1821). The Spagna metro station (subway) is here. So is Rome's first "McDonalds".

Transportation

Porta S. Paolo station

This is the end station of the Roma-Lido commuter train, of most interest to visitors for going to Ostia Antica. The Piramide metro station is right next to it to the east. There is an underpass to Ostiense train station. (Andrew)

Tiburtina bus station

This is the main intercity bus station in Rome. Bus line to Siena: www.sena.it Bus line to Umbria: www.sulga.it (Andrew)

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Train Station - Ostiense

This is a stop on the FM1 train from Fiumicino airport. Trains going up the Tyrrhenian coast (Grosseto, Pisa, La Spezia, etc.) stop here. The underpass between tracks connects at the same level to an underpass to the Piramide metro and Porta S. Paolo stations. (Andrew)

Train Station - Termini

Termini, the central train station for Rome. The Leonardo Express to/from Fiumicino airport (FCO) uses track 24, the farthest track to the southwest in the main part of the station. The Eurostar goes from here north to Florence and beyond or south to Naples and beyond. This is also the metro stop (subway) Termini, and a major bus stop.

Train Station - Tiburtina

This is a stop on the FM1 train from Fiumicino airport, and preferable to Termini for connections to many parts of Umbria and Tuscany. The main intercity bus station is across the street. (Andrew)

Train Station - Trastevere

This is a stop on the FM1 train from Fiumicino airport. (Andrew)

Tram 8 stop Trastevere

There's a newsstand at the marker where you can buy the ticket, and take tram 8 up Viale Trastevere to Largo Argentina. (Andrew)

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