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Verona: Residenza Carducci

Via Carducci 25/C, Phone: 045.8034501
www.residenzacarducci.com

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Reviewed by: Michael in Seattle from WA, review #3296

When: May 2011 and May 2013

Large suites with kitchenettes, amazing breakfasts, great location, charming host.

Residenza Carducci exterior, photo by Michael Spencer

B&B is a five minute walk into the historic center. This outstanding B&B is actually two suites, each with a kitchenette, and with a laundry room for guest use in between. One suite (with a bathtub!) looks out onto the street in the Veronetta neighborhood of Verona, and the other opens onto an interior courtyard. Giovanna Berni is the proud owner/operator of this building that has been in her family for 400 years. (Her grandparents ran it as an inn, one of the first in Verona.)

The spacious air-conditioned suites (which were remodeled only a few years ago and are furnished with pieces from the old inn) are located on the first floor (what Americans call the second floor), sleep two to three people. Giovanna and her America husband live on the two floors above that. Each morning, you go up one floor to Giovanna’s for one of the most amazing breakfasts you’ll find at a B&B in Italy. Pastries, granola, fresh fruit, cured meats, prosciutto, cantaloupe, and eggs are just part of the possible offerings, which vary from day to day. That and as much strong coffee as you can drink will get your day off to a good start.

The location is just across the Ponte Nuovo from the historic center, 500 meters from “Juliet’s” balcony and an easy and charming 15 minute walk to the Arena. Because you’re across the bridge, not only do you pay less, but this neighborhood sees far fewer tourists than if you were to stay in the center, and yet you still have easy access to all the center has to offer. That said, don’t neglect the surrounding neighborhood for excellent eating opportunities, including an excellent gelateria well-situated near the bridge.

Another bonus if you have a rental car is that this neighborhood is outside the dreaded Zona Traffico Limitato restricted area. Giovanna can point you to two different attended parking options, one of which is a private lot nearby that is available only to pre-approved customers at a cost of only 10 euros a day. (In Italy, it really is all about who you know, and Giovanna knows everybody in Verona.) Giovanna also has a free outdoor parking permit for guests, but parking on the street can be a bit of a challenge to find. If you don’t have a car, it’s an easy bus ride or an easier taxi ride from the train station to this charming B&B.

We love this place so much we’ve stayed here twice, in 2011 and 2013. I have recommended this place to three different sets of friends who have all uniformly raved about it afterward. As for pricing, the website says that prices vary from €70 to €160 per day depending on the season and the duration of stay. We paid about 95 euros a night in early May.

One thing that might throw you when looking for this place is that there is not an obvious sign out front. Instead, Giovanna has had the original sign from the inn restored, so what you’re looking is a big sign that reads: “Trattoria Cocodrillo Allogio” with “Residenza Carducci” appearing only on a small brass plate.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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