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See Naples and Die! The Sights of Naples

The main tourist sights of Naples. Please note that all entry times and admission charges listed here are as of 2005/2006 and are, of course, subject to change.

Map of Naples Sights

Tourist Sights of Central Naples

Palazzo Reale

The royal palace was begun in 1600 as a residence for the Spanish viceroys, but was extensively renovated under the Bourbons and was only completed in 1843. The self-guided visit includes the marvelous grand staircase, a private theater (the Teatrino di Corte) dating from the 18th century, the extensively decorated and furnished royal apartments, and the Cappella Palatina with its incredible altar covered in precious and semi-precious stones. Also displayed in the chapel is an amazingly elaborate presepe (crèche scenes), with many pieces dating from the 19th century. The interior courtyards and gardens can also be visited.

Room descriptions and labels on most of the contents are provided in Italian and English, which is not all that common in the Naples area. It's open daily except Wednesday from 9:30am to 7:00pm. Admission (in Jan 06) is 4.00 Euro. Photography is not permitted inside.

San Francesco di Paola and Piazza Plebiscito

Piazza Plebiscito is a large semicircular piazza facing the west facade of the Palazzo Reale. It's a pedestrian-only area now, and offers a nice view of the palace with its facade lined with statues of the rulers of Naples.

Opposite the palace is the church of San Francesco di Paola, a 19th century neo-classical building flanked by long arcades. Beneath one of these arcades is the Tourist Information office which is occasionally open. The church's opening status is uncertain: opening hours are posted, but it never seems to actually be open.

Two nice palaces form the other two sides of the piazza, one of which houses the Caffe Gambrinus, once a favorite haunt of artists and writers. The exit from the Piazza on the downhill side (Via Cesare Console) leads to a small park with good views of the palace and of the marina and port, Vesuvius, and the Bay.

Teatro San Carlo

Adjacent to the royal palace, this is the largest opera house in Italy and certainly one of the most magnificent. It was built for Charles of Bourbon and was finished in 1737, though it has been remodeled several times, most recently after a fire in 1816. The concert hall seats 3,000 people and is known for its near-perfect acoustics. It's arranged in six tiers of boxes and is elaborately decorated in red velvet and plenty of gilt.

Tours are available from 9:00am to 6:00pm on days when the theater isn't used for performances or rehearsals. Tours last about 15 to 20 minutes, are available in several languages (usually in Italian on the hour and in another language on the half hour), and cost 5 Euro. Photography is not permitted inside.

Galleria Umberto

A beautiful late 19th century shopping arcade, the galleria is built in the shape of a cross and has an iron and glass roof and marble pavement. It contains a number of nice shops, bars, and other businesses (including a post office and a couple of ATMs). Near the Via Toledo entrance is Sfogliatelle Mary, which arguably has the best of these wonderful pastries to be found anywhere in Naples.

Castel Nuovo (also called the Maschio Angioino)

The "New Castle" was begun by Charles I of Anjou in the 13th century when the older Castel dell'Ovo and Castel Capuano were no longer large enough for his needs. It was rebuilt in the 15th century by the Aragonese ruler Alfonso I, and consists today of five large towers surrounding a central courtyard.

The entrance is through the marvelous, if somewhat out of place, triumphal arch built to commemorate Alfonso's entry into the city in 1443. Bas-reliefs on the arch depict this triumph and various allegorical figures. From the central courtyard you can enter the Palatine Chapel, a bare Gothic structure containing an interesting collection of 14th and 15th century frescoes and sculpture. An external staircase to the left of the chapel leads to the Sala dei Baroni, a large medieval hall (which is now the home of the Naples city council) with a fine vaulted ceiling.

The hall gets its name from an incident in 1486 when Ferdinand I invited a group of rebellious nobles to the castle under the pretext of a wedding celebration and then promptly arrested and executed them.

In a room beneath this hall under a glass floor are displayed remains of a Roman villa and a medieval necropolis. Much of the western wing of the castle is now home to the Museo Civico which contains a collection of 16th to 19th century painting, sculpture, and silver work as well as the original bronze doors to the castle. Above the museum is a viewing terrace with nice views over the port area. Another viewing terrace can be reached by elevator immediately to the left of the castle entrance and provides excellent views over the city.

The castle is open Monday through Saturday from 9:00am to 7:00pm and entry costs 5 Euro. Photography is permitted (without flash in the museum).

Via Toledo (also called Via Roma)

Via Toledo is usually called Via Roma by locals, though you won't find that name on most maps. This is a major avenue, running (under several names) from the Capodimonte area to Piazza Plebiscito, and passing the Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Piazza Dante, and Galleria Umberto along the way.

The southern half, from the Museo to Piazza Plebiscito, is a confusing mix of one-way street (alternating in either direction) and pedestrian zone (which doesn't always seem to apply to motorbikes) and is lined with all sorts of shops.

At the northern end, a few fairly depressing blocks beyond the Museo, you'll come to the Parco di Capodimonte with its museum (described below) and the nearby entrance to the Catacombs of San Gennaro.

Quartieri Spagnoli

The Spanish Quarter is the name given to the area to the west of Via Toledo running up the hillside. Originally laid out to house Spanish troops, the area is now a lively and often overwhelming maze of tiny streets. The area was for years a center of Camorra violence and drug-dealing, but this activity has now moved to other, more remote areas of the city.

There are no major tourist sights here, but (in daylight at least) walking through this neighborhood offers a fascinating look at the real Naples with its tiny streets, small shops, and insane traffic. There are some good restaurants here, including Pizzeria Brandi which claims to have invented the Pizza Margherita.

Spaccanapoli

The neighborhood known as Spaccanapoli (literally, "split Naples") takes its name from the narrow street which, under several names, divides the city running east to west. It's actually a remnant of the original Greek and Roman street plan, as it was the decumanus inferior (2nd most important east-west street) of the earlier city. In fact, many of the streets of this district have Greek/Roman origins. Naples has the best-preserved original street plan of any major city in the Roman world.

It's a densely populated neighborhood. For centuries under the Spanish and French rulers, the city wasn't allowed to expand beyond its walls, so instead the city grew by packing more and more into its small area and by building up instead of out. Today this district is the liveliest and most interesting part of old Naples. The street life, the wide variety of shops, the tiny pizzerias, and just the overall noise and confusion make wandering these streets one of the highlights of a visit to Naples.

Watch your wallet, but don't be afraid to get a little lost in this part of Naples. Many of the most important sights described below are in this area.

Spaccanapoli neighborhood

Gesù Nuovo

Piazza del Gesù Nuovo is the point where Via Capitelli becomes Via Benedetto Croce (two of the many names for the street known as Spaccanapoli), just east of Via Toledo. In the piazza is the Guglia dell'Immacolata, a towering Baroque monument to the Virgin Mary, raised as thanks for the ending of one of the many epidemics of the plague to visit Naples. On the north side of the piazza is the Gesù Nuovo. The facade looks more fortress-like than religious and was in fact part of a 15th century palazzo. The site was converted into a church by the Jesuits in the 16th and 17th century. The interior is elaborately Baroque with multi-colored marble, statues, reliquaries, and frescoes everywhere. Photography without flash is allowed.

Santa Chiara

Across the piazza is Santa Chiara, a large Gothic church built by Robert of Anjou beginning in 1310, where many of the Angevin rulers of Naples were buried. It was severely redecorated in the Baroque style in the 18th century. The church was almost completely destroyed during the fire-bombing of Naples by the Allies in 1943. After the war, the church was restored in its original Gothic style. The lower tier of arches is largely original but the upper tier and the roof were entirely rebuilt.

There are interesting bits of Gothic sculpture scattered throughout the church, including some fine tomb fragments. The tombs of Robert of Anjou and of Charles of Calabria, behind the main altar, are particularly nice.

The cloister is reached by walking around the left side of the church. Originally 14th century, it was redecorated with colorful Majolica tiles in 1742. There's a small museum in one corner with some interesting stonework from the church and a number of photographs of the war damage and reconstruction. There is also an archaeological area where the excavations of a Roman bath complex can be seen.

Entrance to the church is free but there's a 4.00 Euro entrance charge for the cloister and museum. Opening hours are 9:30am to 12:30pm and 2:30pm to 5:00pm (6:30pm in summer). Photography is permitted, though of course flash should not be used inside the church.

San Domenico Maggiore

Farther down Via Benedetto Croce is the Piazza San Domenico Maggiore which contains another towering monument, this time dedicated appropriately enough to San Domenico. Behind the monument is the church of San Domenico Maggiore which is entered by a staircase on the left of the piazza (there's another entrance at the opposite end from Vico San Domenico Maggiore). The church, built for Charles I of Anjou starting in 1283, is a slightly unusual mixture of Gothic and Baroque, though not the heavy Baroque seen in most Neapolitan churches. If entering from the piazza, you'll first see the porch which contains several fine tombs and a small chapel with more tombs and an interesting tile pavement.

The main body of the church, divided into three naves with a series of side chapels, contains more interesting tombs, an elaborate high altar with fine inlaid marble work, and some 14th century frescoes by Cavallini (a pupil of Giotto) in one of the chapels. On a balcony in the sacristy, which along with the small treasury can be visited for a small charge, are the coffins of some 45 Aragonese rulers and other dignitaries. Photography, without flash, is permitted in this church.

Cappella Sansevero

Down an alley beside San Domenico Maggiore, Cappella Sansevero was originally built in the 16th century but the current decorative scheme dates from the 18th, when Prince Raimando di Sangro had it redone to serve as his family chapel and burial place. It's a blinding array of Rococo sculpture, best known of which is Sanmartino's Veiled Christ which occupies the center of the small chapel. It's visually intriguing but won't be everyone's cup of tea.

There are also interesting sculptures by Queirolo ("Disillusion" - a man wrapped in a fishing net which marks the tomb of di Sangro's father), and Corradini ("Modesty" - a veiled female figure which marks the tomb of his mother), among others. Downstairs is a bizarre display of two human cardiovascular systems apparently removed and preserved by Prince Raimando.

The chapel is open daily (except Tuesday) from 10:00am to 6:00pm and admission costs 6.00 Euro. Photography is strictly forbidden.

San Paolo Maggiore

Piazza San Gaetano marks the site of the Greek agora and the later Roman forum. San Paolo Maggiore, originally a Roman temple, was converted into a Christian basilica in the 8th century and extensively remodeled in the 16th. Two large Corinthian columns from the Roman temple stand on either side of the entrance several meters above street level atop an imposing staircase. You can visit the crypt under these stairs. The interior has been damaged severely by earthquakes and World War II bombing, but is still quite ornate and worth a visit with lots of marble, frescoes, and ornate domes, and some 17th century tombs.

A friendly custodian was offering tours when we visited, but I think he only spoke Italian. Photography, without flash, is allowed.

Naples Underground

Under the streets of the old city of Naples is a vast network of underground chambers. These began as quarries dug by the Greeks for the tufa stone of which much of the ancient city and its walls were constructed. Later they were used by the Romans as cisterns, filled by the aqueducts from the mountains to the east; these remained in use into the 18th century when they were closed as a precaution during a cholera epidemic. Since then they've been used as garbage dumps, bomb shelters, and now as a tourist attraction.

The entrance is just to the left of San Paolo. Tours lasting 1 1/2 to 2 hours are given in several languages and cost around 10.00 Euro. There are some steep stairs involved and parts of this tour are definitely not for the claustrophobic. Tours also include the nearby Greco-Roman theater, reached through a trap-door leading under a modern house, where it is said the emperor Nero performed works he composed himself.

San Lorenzo Maggiore

Across the piazza from San Paolo is the church of San Lorenzo Maggiore. Built by the Angevins in the 13th century on the site of an earlier church, the 18th century baroque facade doesn't really prepare you for the simple Gothic interior. It consists of a single nave lined with chapels, a couple of which are richly decorated in marble. There are some interesting monuments, most notably the tomb of Catherine of Austria. Under glass in the crossing are some fragments of early Christian mosaics. The apse is ringed by nine radiating chapels. The simple Gothic decoration makes this church something of a relief after the elaborate Baroque decor of most churches in Naples. Photography is not permitted in this church.

Outside, between the church and the gray stone campanile, is the entrance to the cloister from which you can visit the archaeological site under the church. Excavations here have revealed the original Roman street level with remains of a marketplace (macellum), a cryptoporticus (covered, partially underground passageway), and other buildings in a fairly good state of repair. Some structures have tentatively been identified as bakeries, fish shops, and a laundry though the purpose of most can only be guessed, as few artifacts which might help to identify them have been found. Greek (in the form of large tufa stone blocks as opposed to the finer Roman brick and stone work) and early medieval remains can also be seen here.

The excavations are open from 9:00am to 5:30pm (1:30pm on Sundays and holidays) and entry costs 4.00 Euro. Tours are available but not mandatory. The chapter house and refectory of the former monastery can also be visited here.

San Gregorio Armeno

From San Lorenzo, Via San Gregorio Armeno runs downhill back to the Spaccanapoli. This street is lined with shops selling figures for the amazingly elaborate Neapolitan presepe or crèche scenes. Though some shops operate year-round, this neighborhood really comes to life in the Christmas season when the whole area is taken over by these vendors and by the crowds of shoppers.

The church of San Gregorio Armeno, part of a Benedictine convent, was founded in the 8th century on the site of a Roman temple, though the present building dates from the 16th and 17th centuries. Though named for San Gregorio, whose relics it houses, it's more highly revered today for the relics of Santa Patrizia. Entered from the street via a small porch, the church is a marvelous example of Neapolitan Baroque at its most elaborate with works by Luca Giordano and others.

The church is only open in the morning from 9:30am to 12:30pm, except on Tuesdays when it's open later. Photography is not permitted inside.

Duomo

The Duomo is an interesting mixture of everything from Angevin to Baroque. It's built over the remains of the early Christian basilica of Santa Restituta which itself was built over earlier Greek and Roman structures. Highlights of the present-day Duomo include the Cappella del Tesoro di San Gennaro, the patron saint of Naples, which has an incredible array of gold and silver reliquaries. Behind the altar here are kept two vials of the saint's blood, which are carried through the city in procession several times a year, during which the preserved blood appears to liquefy. It's said that if it fails to do so, some catastrophe is certain to befall the city. Also worth noting is the beautiful Cappella Minutolo (in the southeast corner).

Under the Duomo, you can visit the archaeological zone where you can see remains of the early medieval basilica as well as Greek and Roman remains. The Baptistry is also important - it's the oldest in Western Europe, dating from around AD 550, and contains excellent mosaics from that period.

There's no entry fee to visit the Duomo, which is open mornings (8:00am to 12 noon) and evenings (4:50pm to 7:00pm) except during services. Entry to the archaeological area and the Baptistry requires a small admission charge and has slightly shorter visiting hours. Rules on photography seem to depend on when you visit, though it's never allowed in the chapel of San Gennaro or with flash.

San Giorgio Maggiore

A block or so farther down Via Duomo is the church of San Giorgio Maggiore, founded originally by San Severo in the 4th century. Almost completely destroyed by fire in 1640, it was rebuilt in Baroque style, though it's really rather restrained Baroque by Neapolitan standards. During the reconstruction, the orientation of the church was reversed. Just inside the new entrance are substantial remains of the apse of the older church, resting on a pair of recycled Roman columns with nice Corinthian capitals. Near the present main altar is the so-called seat of San Severo, actually a compilation of several ancient and medieval stone slabs.

Museo Archeologico Nazionale

Mosaics

Easily the best known and most important destination for the visitor to Naples, the Museo Archeologico contains many of the best finds from the ancient cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum and elsewhere, many of which were formerly in the royal collections of the kings of Naples. These include some amazing frescoes and mosaics as well as the Farnese collection of classical sculpture and much more. Unfortunately it's also a very frustrating place where the worst of Neapolitan bureaucracy and budgetary shortfalls ensure that much of the collection is (apparently permanently) closed or is perpetually being rearranged. There's still a tremendous amount to see, though, so it's well worth a visit.

The ticket office, information desk, and book shop are located on the ground floor at the museum entrance. The rest of the ground floor holds the Farnese sculpture collection with some first-rate pieces including the "Farnese Hercules" and the "Farnese Bull", a few galleries of Roman sculpture from Campania which include some fine sarcophagi, and space for special exhibitions.

On the mezzanine is the excellent collection of mosaics from Pompeii and the Gabinetto Segreto, a collection of Roman erotica (theoretically only open by appointment, though it's been open on both of our recent visits). The other side of the mezzanine contains a collection of coins but rarely appears to be open.

Mosaics

Mosaics at Museo Archeologico Nazionale

On the first floor, the left (west) wing contains collections from Campanian prehistory as well as an outstanding, some excellent classical sculpture from Pompeii and Herculaneum, and a collection of bronzes and other articles from the Villa dei Papiri in Herculaneum. In the center on this floor is a large ballroom, sometimes used for special exhibits. The right (east) wing on this level contains collections of bronze, glass, and pottery from Pompeii and Herculaneum. It also contains a huge scale model of Pompeii, and a large collection of frescoes from Pompeii, most of which seems, frustratingly, to be indefinitely closed.

The museum is open daily, except Tuesday, from 9:00am to 7:00pm and admission costs 9.00 Euro. Photography is permitted here.

Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte

The Capodimonte Museum is about 4 km north of Piazza Plebiscito on a hill overlooking the city. It's not an easy walk from downtown, so most visitors will arrive by bus or taxi.

Begun in 1738 by Charles III of Bourbon as a hunting lodge, the royal palace which houses the museum is set in a large park full of palm trees and pines, much frequented by Neapolitan families looking for a break from the city's congestion. The museum underwent extensive remodeling in recent years and reopened in 1996/7; the result is a very well presented fine arts museum with a good layout, excellent lighting, and an easily comprehensible layout.

On the ground floor are the ticket office, cafe, and a very nice bookshop. The first floor contains the Farnese Collection of fine arts, spread over some 30 rooms. The collection consists primarily of paintings along with some drawings, sculpture, and decorative arts. It includes works by Caravaggio (Flagellation of Christ), Titian, Raphael, Vasari, Botticelli, Perugino, Mantegna, El Greco, Correggio, and many others. The second half of the first floor houses the royal apartments with finely decorated rooms, their furnishings, more paintings, a very nice display of porcelain, and the royal armory. Highlights include the two-story ballroom and a small room decorated from floor to ceiling in Capodimonte porcelain.

The second floor contains a fine collection of paintings from 1200 to 1700, largely from Naples. There aren't as many familiar names here, but there are still some fine works. From a small foyer near room 80, the windows (if open) provide wonderful views of Naples and the Bay, from Vesuvius to the Vomero.

The third floor contains a collection of 19th century art and temporary exhibitions. The museum is open daily (except Mondays) from 8:30am to 7:30pm and admission is 7.50 Euro. There were no posted restrictions on photography, though I've read that it's not allowed.

Castel Sant'Elmo

This large fortress sits on the highest part of the Vomero hill, overlooking the entire Naples area. On a clear day, you can see from the tip of the Sorrentine peninsula around to Vesuvius on the one side, and across the Campi Flegrei and beyond to the islands of Ischia and Procida on the other, with all of Naples and its bay in between. It's best reached via the funicular from Montesanto, though it can also be reached by bus.

The castle was built by the Angevins in the 1330s and renovated into its present star shape in the 16th century. The interior is sometimes used for special exhibitions, but normally there's nothing to see inside the castle itself. There's an elevator that takes you from ground level (and the ticket office) to the upper level of the fortress. From here you can climb up to the ramparts where you can walk around the entire perimeter and admire the views in all directions.

The castle is open from 8:30am to 7:30pm and is closed on Monday. Entry costs 3.00 Euro, and the views are worth every penny.

Certosa di San Martino

Directly beneath the Castel Sant'Elmo, the Carthusians built this extensive charterhouse beginning in the 14th century. It was heavily renovated in the 16th and 17th centuries when heavy Baroque decoration was overlaid on the original Gothic structure. It's probably the nicest example of this "upgrade" in the Naples area. The convent buildings now house the Museo Nazionale di San Martino with exhibits on the history and art of Naples.

You enter the complex through the Cortile Monumentale with the church directly in front of you as you go in. The church has a wide nave flanked by side chapels. The floor is a magnificent inlaid marble pavement, there are interesting paintings and sculpture by Neapolitan artists of the 17th century in the side chapels, and the high altar which appears to be stone is actually a gilded wooden model for a never executed stone version. Behind the altar are the stalls of the monks' choir. Doors on each side lead to the sacristy, treasury, chapter house, and other rooms. The sacristy is particularly fine; the cabinets have incredible inlaid wood doors depicting biblical scenes. All of the rooms are well decorated with lovely woodwork and frescoes. Behind this series of rooms is the Chiostro Grande, one of the loveliest Baroque cloisters anywhere.

Returning to the Cortile Monumentale, you next enter the Chiostro dei Procurati from which the rooms of the museum are entered. Depending on which rooms are open (unfortunately it does vary considerably), there are interesting displays of carriages and coats of arms, a delightful display of Neapolitan presepe figures, the prior's apartments which contain more paintings and sculpture, a series of rooms covering the history of Naples with many old maps and depictions of the city and its surroundings, a collection of porcelain and decorative arts, and an exhibit on Neapolitan theater. There are also very nice views of the city and the bay from the terraces and gardens. The second floor contains a collection of 19th century Neapolitan art.

Opening hours are 8:30am to 7:30pm daily, except Monday when the museum is closed; admission costs 6.00 Euro. According to the posted signs, photography is not allowed, though this was not being enforced when we visited.

Villa Floridiana

Also on the Vomero hill but farther to the west on Via Cimarosa, Villa Floridiana was built for the Duchess of Floridia, second wife of King Ferdinand, in the early 19th century. Today it is the home of the Museo Nazionale della Ceramica, which contains over 6,000 pieces of ceramics from Europe and Asia, primarily from the 18th and 19th centuries, along with collections of gold work, ivory, glass, and 16th to 18th century painting. The grounds have been a public park since the 1920s.

The park is open daily from 9:00 until an hour before sunset and the museum is open Tuesday through Sunday from 8:30am to 2:00pm. Admission is 2.50 Euro.

Castel dell'Ovo

The Castel dell'Ovo (or Egg Castle), one of the most picturesque sights of Naples, occupies a small island just beyond the Santa Lucia waterfront. The island has been inhabited since the earliest days of the Greek settlement of Parthenope and was the site of a large villa belonging to the Roman patrician and general Lucullus. The castle takes its name from a legend attributed to Vergil which says that the castle's foundation rests on an egg and that if the egg breaks, Naples will be destroyed.

The current castle is of much later construction, however, as the oldest remaining parts date from the 9th century. Construction was ongoing through periods of Norman, Angevin, and Aragonese rule and the present form of the castle dates from the early 16th century. After falling into disrepair so severe that its demolition was considered, the castle was heavily restored in the 19th and 20th centuries. Today, the much of the interior is given over to government and other offices and to spaces for temporary exhibitions.

You can enter the castle and proceed up a long causeway to a series of passages and platforms which offer good views of the waterfront and the bay. Around the foot of the castle are a series of restaurants of variable quality (Ristorante Zi Teresa is a see-and-be-seen spot of long standing) and a large marina. There's no charge for entry, except to some of the exhibitions.

Riviera di Chiaia

From Castel dell'Ovo, the Riviera di Chiaia runs west along the coast towards the Mergellina and the long hill of Posillipo. The promenade along the waterfront runs for over a mile and makes for a nice stroll with outstanding views on a nice day of the Bay of Naples on the one side and the heights of the Vomero on the other.

A large park, the Villa Comunale, lies between the two parallel streets along the waterfront. Inside is the Stazione Zoologica, one of the oldest public aquariums in the world, dating from the late 19th century, and containing displays of marine life from the region. It's open daily except Mondays, 9:00am to 5:00pm on Tuesday through Saturday and 9:00am to 2:00pm on Sunday.

At the end of this promenade is the Mergellina, an area of restaurants and bars along the waterfront and embarkation point for ferries to Capri and other destinations. Parts of this waterfront are closed to traffic on some Sundays which allows for a pleasant stroll. There's also a nice antique market in the park on some weekends.

Posillipo

Capo Posillipo is the long peninsula beyond the Mergellina which separates Naples proper from the suburbs and Campi Flegrei to the west. From a long terrace about halfway up Via Petrarcha there are magnificent views of the Bay of Naples from Capri on one side to the Sorrentine Peninsula on the other with all of Naples in front of you. Many newlyweds come to this spot to have wedding photos made.

Farther up this road, on the point, is the Parco della Rimembranza, formerly a "lover's lane" but now largely pedestrianized and offering nice views of the Bay of Naples on one side and the Bay of Pozzuoli and the Campi Flegrei on the other.

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