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Mondovì - Where Wine Meets Cheese

Giuanin Roà (Giuanin)

... e al vago declivio,
il dolce Mondovì, ridente.
... and on the faint, gentle slope,
sweet Mondovì, smiling.

Giosuè Carducci 1913

The countryside surrounding Mondovì is called the Monregalese. Here, the last of the Langhe wine hills slowly morph into five pristine, alpine valleys. The Monregalese is a breathtakingly beautiful area where wine literally meets cheese in southern Piemonte. The eastern half of the Monregalese stretches from Mondovì to Dogliani and has been planted with dolcetto vines for centuries. This area encompasses the entire Dogliani DOCG production zone. The western half of the Monregalese is composed of five verdant valleys at the foothills of the Alps. Each spring, dairy animals graze the upland pastures and their rich milk produces some of the finest artisanal cheeses in Piemonte. Among them is Raschera DOP, a semi-hard cow's milk cheese that is produced only in the valleys of the Monregalese.

Mondovi

Mondovì

Piemonte's famous Langhe wine country follows the south bank of the Tanaro River from Mondovì north to Alba. Situated in the heart of the prized Barolo and Barbaresco zones, Alba is generally considered the "capital" of the Langhe. Mondovì, being located in the more modest Dolcetto zone, is not nearly as well known as its "sister city" to the north. However, this was not always the case. If we look back to the 15th century, Mondovì was the undisputed capital of all of southern Piemonte.

Piazza Maggiore - Mondovì Piazza

Mondovì was founded in 1198 on a hilltop in the village of Vico. The inhabitants of several neighboring villages united to form an independent town, free from the feudal domination that surrounded them. They named the town Ël Mont ëd Vi meaning “the mount of Vico”. Because of its strategic location, Mondovì grew in population and by the early 1400s it had become a center of commerce, art and culture. In 1472 Piemonte's first book printed with moveable type was produced in Mondovì. By the 16th century, Mondovì surpassed Turin as the most populous city in Piemonte. Duke Emanuele Filiberto demonstrated the city's importance to the House of Savoia in 1560 when he moved the seat of Piemonte's university from Turin to Mondovì.

Andrea Pozzo's "dome" - Chiesa della Missione - Mondovì Piazza

Mondovì's Sabaudian legacy is evident today in the art and architecture that still graces much of the city. The centro storico is the Piazza neighborhood which is located on the hilltop where the city was founded. Piazza is the heart of old Mondovì and is a jewel box of gothic and baroque art and architecture. One important treasure is the interior of the Chiesa della Missione by Jesuit artist Andrea Pozzo (1679). Pozzo was a master of perspective and here he created the illusion of a dome where none exists. In 2009 all of the interior frescoes were restored to their original splendor.

Another important work in the centro storico is the Duomo (Chiesa di San Donato) by local architect, Francesco Gallo (1753). Gallo was a prolific architect from Mondovì who designed more than 80 important works during his career. He is best known for designing the magnificent dome of the Santuario Regina Montis Regalis in neighboring Vicoforte. Commissioned by Carlo Emanuele di Savoia in 1596, the church is considered to be one of the finest examples of the over-the-top Piemontese baroque style. The project took more than 135 years to complete and Gallo's dome is still the largest elliptical dome in world.

Francesco Gallo's elliptical dome - Santuario di Vicoforte

From its magnificent main square, the centro storico is linked by funicular railcar to the Breo neighborhood in the lower part of Mondovì. Breo is a lively area filled with charming squares, cafés, bars and porticoed streets lined with chic shops. In the center of Breo is the Piazza del Moro and the Chiesa di Ss. Pietro e Paolo (1549). The church's frescoed facade and automaton clock compete for attention with the brightly colored sundials that surround the piazza. Mondovì is a city of sundials and boasts more than 20 historic examples. One of the most elaborate sundials, Ore Francesi, can be found on Via della Meridiana in Breo.

"Ore Francesi" in Via della Meridiana - Mondovì Breo

On Saturday and Tuesday mornings the old marketplace in Breo fills with local vendors selling specialty foods from nearby farms. At the market you will find artisanal alpine cheeses like Raschera and Castelmagno; organic raw butter and honey; heirloom fruits and vegetables; fresh porcini mushrooms; hazelnuts and chestnuts. Every Saturday and Sunday morning during the autumn there is a truffle market where you can find both white and black truffles from the Monregalese. The bustling Saturday market is a popular meeting place where you are more likely to hear the Piemontese language spoken rather than Italian. For a real taste of local life, find a table on the patio of the Pasticceria-Bar Comino and watch the rhythms of Mondovì pass before you. Comino is a local institution and is famous for its specialty pastries and sweets. Be sure and try some typical Monregalese treats such as Paste di Meliga (sweet cornmeal cookies), Bignole (small puff pastries creme fillings like hazelnut, gianduia, pistachio, etc.), Risole (small flaky pastries with jam fillings) and Cupete (hazelnuts, walnuts and honey between two thin wafers).

Funghi Porcini

In shops all over Mondovì you will find hand-made ceramics on display for sale. In the early 19th century Mondovì developed as an important center for the production of earthenware ceramics. More than a dozen manufacturers opened factories in the Monregalese as the demand for ceramics grew. Over the years, a traditional design emerged called "Vecchia Mondovì" which features a colorful rooster with a traditional blue lace border. Today, only one company, Vedova Besio & Figlio, is still in production using their original designs from 1842. A wonderful new museum, Museo della Ceramica, opened recently in the centro storico to house an extensive permanent collection of ceramics from the Monregalese.

"Vecchia Mondovì" Ceramics

For visitors to the Langhe who are looking to experience a slice of real Piemontese life, Mondovì is the perfect destination. Virtually tourist-free, its charming medieval streets are waiting to be explored. The people of the Monregalese are extremely proud of their culture and are always enthusiastic to share their outstanding cuisine, and of course, their great wine and cheese.