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Cannaregio: ai Quaranta Ladroni

Fondamenta della Sensa , Phone: 041.715736

Closing day: Monday

Reviewed by: Jonathan from UK (moderator), review #2564

When: 2007

Excellent seafood at the side of the Rio della Sensa, far off the tourist track in northern Cannaregio.

Orata ai ferri, photo by Jonathan

It was my final day in Venice: a very hot July morning, and the crowds were starting to get me down. Time to escape to the further reaches of Cannaregio, which, as ever, was blissfully uncrowded.

My first thought was to go to Anice Stellato (well reviewed by Slow Food and Venice Osterie): but they were shut. Almost next door, though, is ai Quaranta Ladroni (40 thieves), which also features in V.O.

Several Venetians were drinking in the cool interior - but the tables on the fondamenta were well shaded, and there was an intermittent breeze, even though the air temperature was fiercely hot.

A traditional menu, almost exclusively seafood. I started with Tagliatelle Laguna: good, home-made egg tagliatelle with a nicely chewy texture, served with a mixed seafood sauce of wonderful depth of flavour. Excellent.

I followed with an orata ai ferri. Perfectly cooked, basted with butter, parsley and a hint of garlic. This has long been one of my favourite fishes: as a child, holidaying with my parents in the south of France, I was introduced to daurade (the same fish), and learnt how to eat it off the bone - which I still prefer: a hands-on experience!

With a coffee, water, and a quartino of red, it all came to 37.50.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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