> SlowTrav > Italy > Restaurants > Reviews > Umbria

Perugia: Antica Trattoria Delle Volte

Via S. Andrea, 2 , Phone: 075.573.37.79

Reviewed by: Jeff Whiteaker from Slovakia, review #3841

When: 2011

Yet another mediocre dining experience for us in Perugia. With the exception of an out-of-this-world antipasto, this place seems to specialize in mediocrity.

Having been frustrated by three nights of underwhelming food in Perugia, despite asking locals and consulting guidebooks for recommendations, we went with our guts (no pun intended) and thought we'd give this unassuming (and not recommended by anyone) place a try. It just seemed to have a nice vibe, and menu had potential. Unfortunately, what we got was yet another evening of so-so food.

Things started off with a bang with an amazing antipasto: a tortino di funghi porcini con crema di tartufo. This was basically like a savory bread pudding in the shape of a panna cotta, filled with extremely potent, flavorful porcini (and probably moistened with a porcini stock), over which was poured a truffle sauce that was creamy without being heavy, and which gave off that yummy, truffle-y flavor in spades. This plate of pure awesomeness raised our expectations for the pasta.

Sadly, expectations were not met. After taking a break from pasta/porcini dishes the previous night, I gambled on a tagliatelle with porcini dish, which was very dry, over-salted, and under-herbed. They also gave me a massive, heaping pile of it, which I couldn't finish. My wife ordered umbricelli, a pasta similar to Sienese specialty pici, which came with a black truffle and porcini sauce. Her dish was frustratingly so-so, and nowhere near as brilliant as that awesome porcini tortino antipasto. She was also given a noticeably skimpy portion, especially compared with the heaping portion of pasta that I got. How is it that they could nail the antipasto so brilliantly, and yet fail so miserably with the pasta? Strange! I would go back to this place only to order three of those tortinos: for the antipasto, primo, and secondo.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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