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Cuirone di Vergiate: Antica Trattoria San Giacomo

Cuirone di vergiate (Varese) , Phone: 0331-948-194

Closing day: Wednesday/Monday, Tuesday and Thursday - open only for dinner

Reviewed by: Alice Twain from Italy, review #459

When: 2003

Within earshot of the Malpensa airport, a good place for your first or last meal in Italy.

Directions: See map on their web site.

I met Bruna and Gabbo (Gabriele) when they were just two foodies writing on the it.hobby.cucina newsgroup. They met, they fell in love, they bought a restaurant and now they are two professionals.

Antica Trattoria San Giacomo is close to the Malpensa airport (and you an actually see and hear the airplanes taking off and landing); this makes it an ideal place for a first or last taste of Italy.

Gabriele (the tall, blondish cook) retained the restaurant's tradition of serving gnocco fritto as appetizer. Gnocco fritto is a dough similar to bread that is fried in oil or lard and served with salami, a traditional food of Emilia Romagna. We had it with delicious lardo di Cavour (less fat than the most famous lardo di Calonnata, and very delicate), pancetta and coppa (acceptable, but a bit too young). This was served with a nice Lambrusco secco from Reggio Emilia.

After the entre, a dish of terrific Risotto with sweet gorgonzola and basil and a delicious Cauliflower soup nearly made us cry. After these Filetto di maiale in crosta di sale and Sformato di tonno proved tasty, although not up to the primi. The main problem with both is that they were a bit too salty. These were served with a good Dolcetto d'Alba and an even better Bonarda wines.

The level of the meal was raised to the stars with the delicious french meringue with whipped cream and zabaione. We paid 34 euro per person, but we really ate more than we should have. A fiend of mine that had a more sober dinner there said that having just Gnocco fritto, a primo, a secondo and a desert plus one bottle of wine and one of water (to be shared between three people) costed her 25 euro.

www.antica-trattoria.it

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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