> SlowTrav > Italy > Restaurants > Reviews > Umbria

Umbertide: Capponi

19, piazza XXV Aprile , Phone: 075.941.2907

Reviewed by: Bill Thayer from IL, review #840

When: 2004

The restaurant of a working-class hotel, with mediocre Umbrian food, but 2 or 3 good Sicilian dishes.

No pretenses, and reasonably priced: plain home cooking. I ate here twice.

The first time I ate Umbrian since we're in Umbria and most of the menu is Umbrian, but the Sicilian cook is not up to it, and the appearance of several dishes is actively unappetizing. Primo: gnocchetti ai funghi porcini, the gnocchi themselves rather good, the funghi vaguely commercial, the whole thing looking like dogfood — still, not bad. Secondo: vitello tartufato, talk of looking appetizing! looking like [an Army term for chipped beef on toast], grey sauce with flecks in it, although with very tender veal and the taste of truffles not absent. Contorni: average. Wine list to match.

The second time I ate Sicilian, and the meal was actually rather good, but there are only 2 or 3 Sicilian choices on the menu. According to local sources, there is just too much pressure on the restaurant to serve Umbrian food, even though they don't do it well. With advance notice and special reservation, one can order a Sicilian meal: that may be quite good, but I didn't get the chance to try it.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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