> SlowTrav > Italy > Restaurants > Reviews > Lombardy

Milan: Dorina--Il Pontremolese

Via G. Pepe 38

Closing day: Saturday lunch, Sunday

Reviewed by: jgk from FL, review #1633

When: 2004

An unforgetable meal! Recommended in Faith Willinger's book. Top notch food, wine and service. The walls are lined with countless bottles of oil and vinegar.

Directions: near Garabaldi station

I arrived at Dorina wondering if we were in the right place. It's not in a commercial neighborhood and has only a very small sign. You have to ring the bell to get in. I was with my (very underdressed) teenagers but the woman owner (Dorina?) welcomed us cordially and shepherded us through the whole meal in a truly lovely way. She was dressed in a very official looking skirt and blazer with culinary badges on it. The tables were elegantly set; the menu was a small white book with many pages. They lovingly specialize in the cuisine of Pontremoli, a small region where Liguria, E.R. and Toscana meet.

My daughter ordered the pasta with pesto and it was like none other we have seen. The pasta is whole wheat, in large triangles. Dorina? tells us it is cooked in a huge pan over hot coals. We also tried delicate green tortelli (little ravioli) stuffed with lots of greens and some cheese, served with a fantastic Ligurian olive oil. The papa e pomodoro was hearty and full of flavor. We loved the grilled quail, chicken with rosemary and peppers, meatballs and grilled veggies. Everything totally fresh, tasty and perfectly cooked. We all shared 1 dessert, rhubarb pudding with strawberries, which was refreshing and wonderful. After vin santo and coffee we were delightfully stuffed!

It was somewhat expensive; about 155 for 4.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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