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Verona: Enoteca Cangrande

Via detro Listone, 19d , Phone: 045.595022

Closing day: Domenica (Sunday)

Reviewed by: dean from MD (moderator), review #606

When: 2003

One of the great wine bars in our experience. Wonderful snacks! Marco is a hoot. Put yourself in their hands and enjoy. Superb selection & wine knowlege.

Directions: Look for Bar Olive on Piazza Bra. There is a little alley to the left. Take that alley to the end and you run into the door of Cangrande. Look for the table with all the Amarone bottles on it.

This is a nothing to look at from the outside wine bar that is a wonder inside. You enter past the bar and makeshift kitchen and walk upstairs to two rooms. The inner room is non smoking. The place is airconditioned, a real plus for summer. They have a very good selection of wines for sale - either to go or for drinking there. They also have a large list of wines by the glass and Marco will offer you others as well.

We ate there twice, once in the afternoon before dinner. We had a cheese plate and a meat plate. The meat plate had all Veronese offerings: prosciutto Veronese, lardo, salami and prosciutto cotto (roast pork shoulder). The cheeses included Venazza, Gorgonzola in younger and older style, and tomino (sort of like a Camembert) in young and aged styles. Then Fabiola (our very nice Argentine waitress) brought us a taste of 300 day old gorgonzola. Incredible. We drank a serious Amarone but I did not write down the producer.

Later that night, after the opera, we had bocconcini. These are small round rolls with various toppings: lardo, mushrooms, cavallo (stewed horse), speck, gorgonzola e mostarda. etc. Each was wonderful. They really hunt out the absolute best ingredients. Kay and Jane had a Gini single vineyard Soave which was good while Marco picked out an Amarone made by the winemaker from Quintarelli and Dal Forno Romano. It is called Raimondi.

Marco, shaved head and with a pierced eyebrow, is a character. He has a rich baritone and he is an actor at heart. He is the star of the show! I scored major brownie points for picking out Lisini Brunello from his retail shelves instead of Banfi. My love of the Amarone Raimondi (and buying 2 bottles each of these two wines) cemented his respect for my wine abilities. We had a great time and are sad we discovered it only at our third visit to Verona.

Food is reasonable (large cheese and meat plates are 13 euro for a feast). Wine ... you are on your own! Their prices are very reasonable, but they carry a lot of incredible wines so it can add up.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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