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Bastardo: Falcinelli

7, via A. De Gasperi , Phone: 0742.301.003

Reviewed by: Bill Thayer from IL, review #860

When: 2004

Good Umbrian home-style cooking with elegant desserts; pizza available too. Thoughtful service. Prices mid-range. Some good local wines, but wine list needs work.

Directions: **Behind Hotel Dany

The hotel and restaurant were so good, the owners so friendly, the room prices so reasonable, that I actually redesigned parts of my stay in Italy to have an excuse to stay an extra day the first time, and to go back a second.

Meal 1:

Strongozzi al tartufo, a B; ostrich with sage and rosemary on a bed of rugola with a bit of vinegar, A-;cheese plate — caciotta, grano padana, pecorino di fossa, gorgonzola; two desserts, mousse al torrone (A) and what they call a sbricciolata ("crumble" of puff pastry under a perfectly textured flavored cream, B+). Sagrantino Adanti; limoncello.

Meal 2:

Tagliatelle al pomodoro e asparagi selvaggi (thin wild asparagus from nearby roadside), B; saltimbocca alla Romana A-; a grigliata mista (not really ratable, but quite good); 2 desserts, which this time left me a bit disappointed mostly because of the lack of variety: a "delizia al rhum e al cioccolato" — something between an icecream and a mousse, B; and a "crêpe al caramello" which was indeed a homemade crêpe but quite spoiled by being filled with vanilla ice cream — banalized and losing any real identity as a crêpe, C+: still, as sweets, well executed and not bad.

Meal 3:

Cannelloni in rosso, A-; chicory (B+: too salty) and broccoletti (A verging on A+); then filetto al marsala, very good tender meat, rather little marsala, but an A here too, with fries, A-. Sagrantino Scacciadiavoli 2000. Crème brûlée, A; coffee, grappa di Sagrantino.

Overall rating (restaurant): A-. Value for money (restaurant + hotel): A+. Warmly recommended.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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Bastardo: Falcinelli

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