> SlowTrav > Italy > Restaurants > Reviews > Lazio

Centeno: La Dogana

Phone: 0763-734092

Closing day: Wednesday

Reviewed by: Denise from TX, review #174

When: 2002

We ate at this restaurant 3 times during our stay and absolutely loved it.

Directions: On the main road SS 2 (Via Cassia), km. 140. The small town of Centeno is located just off of the S.S. 2 in Lazio but only a few meters from the Tuscany / Lazio border.

Since there were 4 of us, we had ample opportunity to try different dishes and there wasn't one that we were disappointed with. It's a small family run restaurant, Luigi (owner) cooks on an open fireplace. Emanuella (daughter, speaks English) waits tables and mom cooks in the back.

Centeno (small town of maybe 7 houses) is 20 min. north of Acquapendente, which is the largest closest town. We have no idea where the people came from but they were always packed for lunch and dinner, of mostly Italians and an occasional tourist.

My favorite dish was the risotto. After watching 3/4 of the Italians order it on two visits, I decided I had to try it. It was fantastic! After cleaning my plate, I decided to ask Emanuella what it was made with. In broken English, she told us it was made with "nettle, you know, the weed that makes you itch." This has given me a new perspective on my back yard! They have a beautiful vegetable garden out back, and after watching Luigi carefully plant and arrange flowers one full day, the love and care he puts into what he does is obvious. They serve traditional Italian fare (no pizza), and are well known with the locals as we had a lady at the tourist office in Montefiascone (an hour away) recommend it. Open for dinner at 7:30. Reservations are a must on Friday, Saturday and Sunday afternoon. I must say I may be a bit biased. Anytime an Italian man serves me by referring to me as "bella senora" - well, I'm sold! But it was a delightful experience and I know you won't be disappointed!

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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