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Camporgiano: Mulino del Rancone

Phone: 0583-618670

Closing day: unknown; closed January, February

Reviewed by: Arney from NJ (www.italyvilla.com), review #438

When: 2002

Wonderful, inexpensive food at a restaurant that specializes in dishes made of farro, an ancient variety of wheat, and other Garfagnana specialties.

Directions: About 11 kms N of Castelnuovo di Garfagnana and about 40 kms N of Lucca. It is not on highway 445, the main road through Camporgiano. Coming from the south on 445, turn right at the last right-hand turnoff on the edge of the town. It's a wide turnoff with a trash dumpster and heads downhill to the train station. Follow the winding road until you see the sign for Mulino del Rancone, then turn in there.

Try the minestro di farro if it's on the menu, or any of the hand-rolled pastas made of farro. Outside dining in summer, but the inside dining room seats fewer than 20, so reserve if you plan to eat inside. The restaurant is part of a working farm and an old mill on the banks of the Serchio River. It has some typical farm products for sale, such as farro and chestnut flour.

It also has 8 rustic rooms for overnight guests but I do not recommend them. The location is lovely but the mattress sagged in the room I stayed in. No box springs. Bill for 2 nights, including 2 breakfasts, 1 lunch and 2 dinners, was a total of 123 euros for one person. The restaurant is part of the Italian slowfood movement. Faith Willinger's "Eating in Italy" also recommends it.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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