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Lake Garda (Salo): Romantik Hotel Laurin

Viale Landi, 9 , Phone: 0365.22022

Reviewed by: dean from MD (moderator), review #601

When: 2003

Incredible setting: slightly decaying but still beautiful Liberty style villa with great food and a Buon Ricordo plate.

Directions: Salo is Technically in Lombardia but right on Lago di Garda’s western shore

Hotel Laurin, Salo After a pour of prosecco, we begin a wonderful meal. Very fussy presentations but full of flavor.

Antipasti: Octopus with oyster celery and tartufo antipasto- simple and elegant, and Jane loved it!

Alici on a pastry disc with roasted tomatoes- earthy and salty, wonderful. Alici are fresh anchovies marinated in vinegar, nothing like canned or salted.

Culatello di Zibbibo with homemade mostarda di pere (a pear jam flavored with mustard seed)- superb. Culatello is a special form of prosciutto made from a muscle off the rump and not the leg of the pig, more peppery and stronger in flavor. This was simple and superb.

Primi: Penne with cherry tomatoes, smoked goat's milk cheese- wonderful ripe tomatoes, simple cheese.

Tortellini with mozzarella di Bufala and smoked goat’s milk cheese- very luxurious textures. The mozzarella was soft and tender and the shreds of smoked goat's milk cheese offered a contrast in flavor and texture.

Seccondi: The Buon Ricordo plate of filet of Trota with a spicy salsa- wonderfully fresh salmon trout, great salsa with tomatoes, capers, olives etc. The Trota di Lago di Garda is rich and oily with a really fine flavor. It was cooked just perfectly and the sauce cut the richness of the fish perfectly. You get the commemorative Buon Ricordo plate if you order this dish.

Tonno grilled 'til crusty on the outside but still rare in the middle with fried and caramelized onions. Spectacular dish if a little international in style. The tuna was fresh and rich, sushi grade and almost toro. It had an almost crackly crust from the grilling on a flat top grill. The two kinds of onions made for a contrast of flavors and texture.

Lunch for 3 with a good bottle of Friuli Pinot Grigio, Pierpaolo Peccorari 2001 (29 Euro) was just under 200 Euro.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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