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Milan: Trattoria all'antica

via Montevideo, 4 , Phone: 02.837.2849

Closing day: Sunday

Reviewed by: Alice Twain from Italy, review #874

When: 2004

Excellent resturant serving dishes from Milanese tradition as well as other areas of Lombardy. The Cotoletta is very good. A bit on the costly side.

Directions: Subway line 2 (green) to Porta Genova. Once you are out of the subway, walk to the right of the station and over the iron bridge. On the other side turn left on via Voghera and right at the first intersection. After a couple hundred meters, you will see pub with red outer walls on a corner -the restaurant is ten meters ahead, on the other side of the street.

Take a dozen bloggers aged between 22 and 34 and you are likely to have a quite loud bunch. Yet we were served excellently in this medium-sized restaurant that, despite the name "trattoria" serves its food in nice plates.

Skipping the antipasto, all the twelve of us had a primo ranging from delicate pappardelle with pesto, to good little gnocchi served with a sauce of speck and pumpkin flowers to good casonsei, a pasta filled with meat and cheese traditional of Bergamo. As second course most of us had an excellent cotoletta with the bone served with tomato concassè and, unfortunately, loads of rucola (which I rather like in salads, but honestly loathe anywhere else). Still the meat was tender, coverred with a satisfying crust of breadcrumbs and well-fried, so that it didn't leak any fat. A few of us had, instead, a good filet steak, brown on the outside and the right shade of pink on the inside, served with a salad.

Desserts included a pavarese di fragole which really tasted like strawberries and cream, an mousse al cioccolato that was deliciously bittersweet, and a zabaione con marsala extremely delicate and fluffy, which might have been perfect if only there had been a few drops more marsala (but that was just a glitch); mousse and zabaione were both served with small lingue di gatto bisquits.

For the wine we chose a good Inferno that worked well with the dishes requested by most of us. A total of 38 euros per person was honestly a little on the costly side, but still adequate to the quality of the food we were served (and let's not forget that we were really loud and the owner was extremely polite in asking us to hush a bit).

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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Milan: Trattoria all'antica

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