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Montemagno Calci: Trattoria di Montemagno

Piazza Vittorio Veneto 2 , Phone: 050-936245

Closing day: Monday, Sunday dinner in Winter

Reviewed by: David from NY (moderator), review #148

When: 2001

Carla Capalbo’s recommendation. A detour is well worth it to visit both places the hamlet of Montemagno and the restaurant.

Directions: The little hamlet of Montemagno is east of Pisa, just past the Certosa di Pisa. To reach the trattoria you have to park in a lot before entering the town and just walk up the hill into the little piazza.

The trattoria is a welcoming, homey place that is obviously a favorite among locals. It appeared that we were the only tourists there on a night in August 2001. The two women who run it are obviously well-respected. The menu is written on a blackboard. We enjoyed trenette con baccalà, farfalle con zucchini e pancetta, vitello tonnato, crostata di scamorza (like a quiche made with smoked scamorza cheese). Great desserts – torta di Corinna (a sort of apple cobbler thing), tiramisu di pesche was an inventive, delicious treat. The bad news: they only offered a few wines – we tried 2 of them and they were both quite disappointing. Their house red was pretty mediocre and the other was a curious, fizzy red from Piacenza that I could hardly drink. Oh well. Go there for the food. Inexpensive – we paid £104,000 for 3 people, each of us having primi, secondi, desserts, 2 bottles of wine etc.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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