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Capalbio: Trattoria La Vallerana

Loc. Vallerana 9, 58011 , Phone: 0564.896211
Closing day: Wednesday

Reviewed by: Janet from NY, review #2586

When: 2007

Unassuming from the outside, fabulous Bistecca on the inside! Worth a detour if you are in the southern Maremma.

This family-run trattoria was recommended to us by our host at Agriturismo Quercia Rossa, outside of Manciano. Its a bit in the middle of nowhere, situated on the road between Manciano and Capalbio, but it's an easy drive from either locality. We weren't expecting much when we drove up, as the exterior looks more like a bar, but there is a lovely garden in the back and a large casual dining room.

The menu lists many specialties of the Maremma, but we had been told that Bistecca was the thing that everyone orders here and so that's what we had.

We started simply with prosciutto and melone, in anticipation of a heavy meal ahead. Then, on to the best Bistecca Fiorentina we've had in Italy! An amazingly huge hunk of tender beef. It was served in a way we'd never seen before...the steak was brought extremely rare--just nicely seared/charred on the outside--but each table was brought an extremely hot brazier-plate where you could continue to cook the steak to your liking. Somehow these plates stayed searingly hot throughout your meal. Just about every table in the place was enjoying this cook-along. For contorni we ordered another specialty, Verdue Fritte Miste, which turned out to be a gigantic plate of lightly (almost tempura-like) fried vegetables and fruits---yes, we found peaches and apples in the mix along with zucchini, onions, potato slices, carrots--way too much to finish but absolutely delicious and unexpected.

The wine list is extensive and fairly priced with many local Morellinos. We had a Rocca della Maccie Morellino di Scansano for 13.

For dessert we shared a Tartufo Nero (ice cream)...that was all we could manage.

This wonderful feast came to all of 86, an amazing value.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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