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Navona: Salumeria Roscioli

Via dei Giubbonari, 21 , Phone: 06 6875287
www.salumeriaroscioli.com

Reviewed by: AndrewG from CA, review #3684

When: 2010

Okay, if we lived in Rome, we would eat here ... a lot.

From what I read, “450 different kinds of cheese, more than 100 different types of cured meat, a wine list of 2200 labels, 20 different homemade breads.” I believe it. Crowded, popular, and an immediate sensory overload of sights and smells, let alone tastes once you are seated and served. This is probably the most expensive deli we’ve been in, but we believe it is worth it.

We walked through the shop in front and past the few tables located nearby and headed downstairs to the wine cellar and our table. Here, amongst a staggering collection of Italian and French wine bottles, I had the single greatest plate of cheese in my life, a huge serving of burrata, probably intended for a group to share. And not just any luscious, creamy, delicious burrata, no! This was “Burrata from Andria with Black Pepper from Malesia and semi-dried cherry tomatoes from Pachino,” with some drops of amazing EVOO. It was fantastic, and I am not embarrassed to say I killed it.

Roscioli also is famed for its pasta dishes, called some of the finest in Rome. I do not disagree. Here, I had simply fabulous spaghetti alla carbonara, with an egg yolk and guanciale to make you weep; followed by the unanimous winner of “the second greatest pasta in my life” award, tonnarello al sugo di coda vaccinara (a slightly thick, squarish spaghetti with an oxtail ragu). So good, we came back on our final day in Rome for another plate for lunch, along with an insanely good linguine porri e gambero (leeks and shrimp).

With our dinner, another 2006 Le Trame Chianti Classico; with lunch a very nice 2009 Conte Zandotti Rumon Malvasia del Lazio. If we return to Rome, we will return, several times. (Related to the famed and wonderful Antico Forno Roscioli bakery down the street and across the Campo dei Fiore.)

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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