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Postcard - A Day Hike in Sardinia
Marta Raaka (msMartie)
In early April, we spent almost two weeks traveling around the beautiful island of Sardinia, Italy. Although we used the busses and trains for part of the trip, we rented a car to see more of the east coast, south of Olbia. Driving was easy because this island has mostly small towns and little-trafficked country roads.
When we crossed over from the west coast to the east, we found some striking scenery and more challenging hikes. We were based in Santa Maria Navarrese, a small beach town near the port of Arbatax. We found out about this hike from a nice hiking guide book on Sardinia that was in our rental apartment; unfortunately I don't have the name of the book. But there are many hiking books available in book stores in the larger cities of Sardinia or online. (See Sardinian Tourist Services for more information on this hike).
We drove up into the hills behind the town of Baunei where we started a six mile hike towards the sea at Su Porteddu, a restaurant. We started higher in the hills and had to hike down a rocky trail that wound around the hills and back down to the sea.
Along the trail we ran into a few small goat herds with their little bells clanging. We also saw signs of wild pigs, cinghiale, that had been digging for truffles around the oak trees. On our way back, we ran into two rather large boars, but they quickly moved away from us and were not menacing at all. We also saw some wild goats with no bells around their necks.
Although the hike was not easy, due to the uneven trail and the steep descent, it was all worthwhile when we got our first view of the sea. It took awhile to finally arrive at the small swimming beach, but we were glad we prevailed. The Cala Goloritzè, as it is called, is a small cove with coarse golden sand and smooth boulders. The water was a bit cold, but we soothed our tired feet and then relaxed in the last of the afternoon sun.
Arrival at the beach
Only two other groups were left when we got there. The water was that amazing blue mixed with turquoise that we had seen in the guidebooks. We could look north and see the colorful cliffs and most of the Ogliastra Coast.
As we gazed up at the amazing pinnacle rock, Punta Caroddi, We noticed that there were two rock climbers making their descent. The rock is a very steep, 469 feet. So, after watching them hanging from their ropes, near the top, we felt like our trek was more of a walk in the park.
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