Vacation rentals in Italy (villas, farms, estates, agriturismo, apartments)
Review 238: Venetian Apartments, Terrazza Ca d'Oro
3bed/3bath apartment, Venice
End of April/early May, 1 week
I give this apartment a thumbs-sideways. It is impossible for me to fully damn it, due to the large space, fabulous location (with all shops, cafes, trats and Coop nearby), and postcard canal views out nearly every window. There was also a terrace, lovely in the mornings.
But it's one of those places that the Italian owner temporarily vacates to make money, leaving behind personal paraphanalia (not in itself a bad thing) and also, I'm afraid, a great deal of dust. His idea of cleaning is to scrub down the kitchen and bathrooms and change the beds, but little else.
The foyer was pretty filthy. Italians usually don't care about the common spaces in their buildings. They consider them about as worthy of cleaning as the street.
Additionally, the buzzer didn't work -- meaning that you have to go down 62 stairs to let a guest in -- if you can hear them shouting at all! A serious demerit.
Worst, some of the plumbing stank. (Although I've subsequently been told that a little bleach down the pipes works wonders.)
Charm, however, the place had in spades. There were some antique pieces, the kitchen was very well equipped, with an eating area as well as a dining room, and improbably (given the general level of upkeep), there was a satellite TV on which we could get David Letterman and CNN. I cannot stress enough how unusual it is for a rental in Venice to have nice-sized rooms and four-sided light, not to mention a multiplicity of views. It's a shame, because with just a little money this place could be paradise. As it was, even with the negatives, I must admit that I wasn't too put out. I mean, don't we expect funkiness and sloping floors in a 500-year-old-building? (We called it the "Tiltin' Hilton.")
This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.
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