Vacation rentals in Italy (villas, farms, estates, agriturismo, apartments)
Review 2760: Rental in Rome, Pellegrino Penthouse B
1bed/1bath apartment near Campo de' Fiori, Rome
April 10-28th , 2 1/2 weeks
Pelligriono Penthouse B in Central Rome was so fantastic. It is located on an ancient windy street, just a few minutes walk from from the famed Campo dei Fiori (outdoor market, for those who love to cook this is a must see, must taste).
The location is too perfect. A two minute walk to Piazza Navona, an eight minute walk from the Pantheon, and directly across the street is the gem, Chiesa Nouvo (a beautiful cathedral) and a few minutes walk to Largo Argentina, where in addition to being an ancient archaeological site where Caesar was known to have been stabbed, it is a cat sanctuary with over 400 cats, as well as the central location for catching buses that go just about everywhere throughout the city.
The location allows you to slip into the Campo dei Fiori for a morning cappuccino and cornetto, where the locals and tourists alike mingle at outdoor cafes. It is here I once, in my student days, met the famous designer Gautier while sharing a cafe with a local prince (true story). The Campo, in addition to having true farm stands from all over Tuscany with the most verdant veggies you have ever seen, has a great cheese and meat stand as well, also a fish stand, that unlike our NYC Chinatown fish stalls, is so fresh there is no odor to be had! There are small food shops surrounding the square as well. The famed Forno bakery is an absolute must, as is the "pizza rosa" and "pizza bianca" within. Try the crostini as well.
This apartment has a small full kitchen, so take advantage of the greatest polleria (chicken butcher) on the side of the campo, great chicken, so fresh. There are numerous restaurants as well. The Carbonara being the best on the Campo for pasta.
The apartment itself is adorable. It's very "old Rome" but truly comfortable. It has a very bohemian style, which we loved being two artists. We changed around the decor a bit (moved some paintings etc) and with the addition of lots of fresh flowers bought at the Campo, and candles in the evening, it was downright lovely.
There is an amazing private terrace, two parts in fact. One part (our favorite) is a cozy nook overlooking balconies, with an ancient wall holding a trellis of vines. There are a bunch of flowers and potted rosemary, which we often cooked with. There is an outdoor table, chairs and umbrella of course.
The other side of the terrace is larger and overlooks a few large buildings and the Corso Vittorio Emanuelle (large avenue) in the distance. It's more grand, but less intimate. We brought candles and my Ipod to infuse the air with some opera in the evenings, and had breakfast up there almost every morning, lovely ... such a plus.
The furniture was well used yet lovingly so. One feels as if you are staying in a relatives apartment when staying here. The apartment was very clean upon our arrival and very inviting and comfortable. There are a bunch of cool antiques in use all over the apartment. There is a great antique wooden desk -like cupboard in the kitchen filled with olive oils and coffee etc. and a great piece in the small foyer where we would hang out our jackets and lay our gloves .. and put a vase of flowers. It too is a lovely antique.
The bathroom is rather small, and the shower is even smaller, so Americans beware. We who are used to huge showers and baths must leave our American "toilette" at home and adopt a swift shower. This we did not mind though coming from NYC where often the shower is in the kitchen.
The bedroom was great. The bed is real Queen size bed (not two mini beds pushed together as often happens in Rome) and very comfortable. There is an antique dresser and armoire for your clothes as well, and a huge closet in the hall. The bedroom was pretty quiet when the windows were shut, and was peaceful to sleep in. There is always construction going on in Rome, so you will hear that in the mornings.
After the hike up the marble stairs you are met with a full kitchen with a window overlooking the neighbors balconies, very old Rome. There is an old wooden table, and some sweet paintings and a little couch, perfect for entertaining. The house is really equipped for cooking, and we left a nice big espresso maker in the apartment after we left! We loved the kitchen, and had many a romantic candle lit dinner there.
Agency and Representatives (and price)
Rental in Rome itself was very professional to deal with. One thing to be aware of is that if you stay in this apartment for over 10 days you get a free one way pick-up from the airport. The driver will ask you for money nonetheless, and you just have to show him your pick-up voucher. Have this on hand (it will save you about $80.00)
The most wonderful part about this apartment were its owners who we adored. Letizia and Giuseppe are amazingly sweet and friendly. Letizia met us at the apartment upon our arrival, and after our hike up the marble stairs to the apartment, whipped out a grocery bag full of goodies for us. She had found out through the Rental in Rome agency that it was our honeymoon, and so she had brought us a bottle of champagne, along with wine, and a tart, numerous bags of biscotti and a bunch of apples from her mothers country home! Letizia speaks only Italian (fine for me, but my poor husband was a bit linguistically bewildered) and her husband speaks English very well. They are both architects, and absolutely the sweetest people you will ever meet. The very first hour of our arrival we were invited to dine at their house for lunch. (excellent). They have the most lovely daughter (Claudia) who we fell in love with. This was such a unique experience, in that we really became friends with the owners.
Do you recommend this vacation rental to others?
We will certainly be staying in this apartment again. We travel tons and have stayed in other apartments in Rome. This was the best experience by far. As New Yorkers we are pretty critical, and sometimes a bit cynical, so to have a great review from us is rare. This apartment, and especially the owners get a huge gold star in our books. One note, it's good to remember that Rome apartments for this price will not be total luxury. Its cute and comfortable, and very European. One must leave the huge American standards in America. Things are generally smaller in Rome (e.g., the stove, the fridge, the bathroom). Renting an apartment like this makes the experience unique. You will, for the time you are here, live like a Roman. We loved that.
Things to do in this area
There is so much to do in this area as it is totally centrally located in the heart of Rome! You can walk to the Forum, to St. Peters, to Trastevere, to Piazza Venezia and Navona and to the Pantheon. It's the perfect location to stay in Rome. Tons of shops all throughout this area. Pellegrino has antique stores and a cool, while over priced vintage store. Best to just wander and find stores. There are tons.
This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.
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