Vacation rentals in Italy (villas, farms, estates, agriturismo, apartments)
Review 4336: Views on Venice, Ca' Canaletto
2bed/1bath apartment in Dorsoduro, Venice
October 2009, 5 nights
This apartment is located in the Dorsoduro sestiere of Venice, along a peaceful and quaint canal, a few minutes walk from Ca'Rezzonico and Campo San Barnaba. Although close to amenities, the area had a secluded, magical feel that I absolutely loved. I also found that the Dorsoduro was my favorite part of Venice overall, full of lively campos and charming small canals. I highly recommend this location!
There were two excellent grocery stores within a ten minute walk: the Billa on the Zattere, and another on Santa Margherita Campo. Even closer were the excellent bakery of Rizzo Pane and the GROM gelateria on Campo San Barnaba, our favorite restaurant Pane Vino e San Daniele on Calle Lunga S. Barnaba. There were plenty of other good looking restaurants and cafes in the area as well.
The building was old but apparently in good shape. The neighborhood was peaceful and quiet -- I loved waking early and listening out the windows, hearing nothing but the lap of water and creaking of boats. The single locked entryway on the street led to an unfinished basement corridor that led to the single flight of stairs up to our apartment (there was a light switch with a timer), which took up the first (or second, if you are from the US) floor. I believe there was only one other apartment above us, but that one also had a separate entrance from the same basement hall.
You can view the property directly: Ca' Canaletto.
Several of the windows overlooked the pleasant green gardens of the neighboring apartments, but there was no nice outside sitting area for our own apartment.
The furniture was in excellent shape and the house was very clean. There were more than enough chairs and areas to sit as the apartment had two different sitting areas (each with a couch) and a separate dining room with a large table. We particularly liked the L-shaped red corduroy couch in the main living room.
The beds were very comfortable, and the bedding itself was of very good quality. There were additional (and quite welcome) warm blankets in the armoires in each bedroom. The bedroom my husband and I had was like a dream -- pale walls, tall windows with gauzy white curtains, a beautiful antique mirror, and a crystal chandelier (!).
There was only one bathroom but we made do well enough. And the ENORMOUS bathtub more than made up for the single bathroom! It was probably the deepest tub I've had the pleasure of bathing in, and it never ran out of hot water. There was also a separate shower (though I never used it, with that bath available!).
The kitchen was well-appointed with plenty of dishware, nice big mugs, teapot, toaster, good quality frying pans and pots, oven, dishwasher, and fridge. No microwave.
Previous tenants had left a supply of soap, salt, olive oil, vinegar, coffee and tea.
The kitchen was long and narrow and the position of the small round table meant there wasn't much room for more than one cook at a time.
Problems or Bonuses
I was actually blown away by how nice the apartment was -- the pictures on the website are nice but it was even better in person. And it was so spacious and yet homey.
The stone floors were a bit chilly though -- slippers would have been welcome!
There was a washing machine in the utility closet and a short line running from one bedroom, as well as a large wooden drying rack. There were no clothespins that we could find.
Agency and Representatives (and price)
Views on Venice were fabulous! We made all arrangements via email. As directed, we called the representative when we arrived at the train station, and a friendly woman named Sylvia met us at the Ca'Rezzonico stop to lead us to the apartment and show us how to use the keys, stove, washing machine, etc. She also pointed out various things along the way (including a very good bakery). We managed to lock ourselves out on the first day just before the office closed, and the representative at the office agreed to stay 15 minutes late so we could race over to get the spare key (there's a €50 fee if you get locked out outside office hours).
We got a discounted price by booking very early during a winter sale, but even without the discount I think the listed price is quite reasonable for what you get.
Do you recommend this vacation rental to others?
I would most definitely stay here again, and would recommend it to anyone! The only drawback I can see to this apartment is that if you really wanted to be in the center of the nightlife and bustle of tourist activity, you might prefer a location closer to San Marco's square. But for us, it was perfect!
Things to do in this area
We loved just wandering the Dorsoduro area. It was lovely to walk over to the Zattere in the evening and watch the sun setting over the Giudecca Canal, or to head up to Campo Santa Margherita to have pizza outside and people-watch.
I wanted to buy a mask as a souvenir, and thus poked my head into any shop I could find. Ultimately I decided my favorite shop (where the masks are crafted by hand locally) was Ca'Macana -- which has a showroom literally around the corner from this apartment.
We also liked the gelato at both GROM (though it's a bit pricier) on Campo S Barnaba and Gelato Squero (a few minutes walk toward the Accademia).
Our favorite restaurant of the entire trip was Pane Vino e San Daniele on on Calle Lunga S. Barnaba.
Campo San Barnaba also featured a funny little toy shop with several computers crammed in where you could buy Internet time (which I did). We also loved the Leonardo Da Vinci machines exhibit at the church there (I suspect a lot of kids would enjoy it too, as there are many nifty hands-on displays).
Finally, it wasn't until we got back home that I discovered another thing that made the area of our apartment even more appealing: the Campo San Barnaba was where they filmed scenes of Venice in Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade!
This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.
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