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Review 746: Le Case Gialle, Il Portico


Review by azwaniecki from MD

cottage/apartments on farm near Bevagna, Umbria


October 4-10, 2003, Week


My wife found Le Case Gialle before any review of this farm residence appeared on this site. But now, what else can we add to well-deserved praises heaped on the apartments and their considerate, friendly, nice, inviting, helpful but not at all intrusive owners?

Silvana and Mauro renovated and furnished the apartments with comfort and pleasure of their guest in mind as their guiding principle. They have thought about everything and everything you need is there. Most importantly, this place, located on the slope among olive groves, fields and patches of woods, brings out a sense of pastoral calm and harmony, as someone already noticed.

Il Portico where we stayed is furnished with a mix of modern furniture and simple country antiques. It has a large porch (terrace), which with good weather prevailing become the center of our life. Often, we would sit on the porch - Urszula reading a book and I attempting to meditate. But as hard as I tried to fly away into the inner zone, I had to open my eyes from time to time just because the view before me was so splendid. A hen we befriended (or I should say which befriended us) was our only companion.

We didnít spend the whole week gazing at the valley between Le Case Gialle and Montefalco though (although I wish we spent more time doing just that.) We visited Spoleto, Assissi, Trevi, Spello, Todi, Montefalco and Bevagna, and more or less liked them all.

we spent a late morning at the Sunday's flea market in Campello sul Clitunno. We liked few not-very-old antiques displayed on stalls but they either were too heavy to carry or more expensive than we were ready to pay. Nevertheless, it was worth a 45-minute drive from Le Case Gialle.

On my own I hiked from Le Case Gialle along the road to Gualdo Cattaneo, a quite, unspoiled and yet undiscovered walled village, and later to Gaiole by following a path from Le Case Gialle down through the olive plantation. Gaiole, a small and apparently poor settlement, is nothing to rave about but the trail going through fields, woods and olive groves was lovely.

On recommendation from Mauro, I also visited the Scacciadiavoli vinery, whose winemaking tradition goes back to the XIX century. The vinery produces a nice blend of different grapes including Sagrantino under Montefalco Rosso label (Silvana and Mauro include it in their welcoming package) and its own version of Sagrantino. Paolo, who bought it several years ago, modernized it and refurbished it while keeping some original structural elements including an old basement with a huge oven.

We had lunches in towns we visited and cooked dinners in our apartment. We bought fresh pasta at a small shop off Via Umberto I in Montefalco (that was our preferred one) or a pastry shop on Corso G.Matteotti in Bevagna (other supplies can be purchased at the two small supermarkets in Bastardo).

We are certain to return to Le Case Gialle in search for solitude and peace.

(By the way, we paid 420 euro for a week's rental.)

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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