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Zarate: Estancia Los Dos Hermanos

Outside of Buenos Aires, Phone: 005411.4765.4320 / 03487.438903

Reviewed by: Digital Traveler Bill from New York, review #1829

When: October 2006

I found out I loved horseback riding at this Estancia.

The Corral, photo by William C Bert

I picked this estancia because I found many of the estancias around Buenos Aires seemed like spas, resorts or theme parks to me. That was not what I was interested in doing while I was in Buenos Aires. Horseback riding was my interest and that is what Los Dos Hermanos does.

I thought it would be a good idea to spend the night in one of the estancia’s cottages to give me time to relax. The cost for a day of horseback riding, meals and one night in one for the estancia’s cottages was around $95 dollars. There was an additional cost of transportation to and from the estancia. I split the cost with a family of four from the U.K. to the estancia and I came back using a taxi.

I should point out I do not have any horseback riding experience. That's right - I have none!

I was served a light breakfast when I first arrived and had a chance to meet the other guests, most who were there for the day for some horseback riding. I was matched with a friendly horse and after a 15 minute lesson on horseback riding I was riding. Everyone went riding as a group and we had all types of riders. There were some with experience, those like me who had none, children on ponies and there was some riding in a horse drawn carriage. But we all rode as a group.

The first trail we went riding on was through green flowered pastures. After 30 minutes of riding they pumped the experience up. We started galloping with our horses and I was able to keep up with the group. I surprised myself because I did not fall off of my horse while galloping.

At lunch we all sat at the same long table outdoors. Everyone - including the people who worked at the estancia we went riding with that day - had lunch at the same table. I found lunch was like one big happy family of horseback riders.

Lunch started with a simple salad, wine, beer and then came the asado. The meat sizzled on small hot stoves that was placed on the table and everyone picked what they wanted to eat. There was plenty of meat for all and we were served three times with different cuts of meat.

An hour later after lunch went horse back riding again, but on a different trail. This time it was on dirt roads and open grass fields. The horseback riding was the same as in the morning with a slow pace interrupted with the fast pace of galloping with the horses. I had the same horse I rode in the morning.

After the last ride, we had our last meal together. We were served some excellent homemade empanadas along with wine, beer and soda to drink. Then I walked to my cottage to relax after the guests who came for the day departed.

My cottage was a large room with a bathroom, a comfortable king size bed, living room, a bathroom with a shower, a large satellite TV and a fireplace. It looked like a home and it made me feel that way. The inside of the cottage was decorated with objects about horses and horseback riding. There was even a small library of photography books about horseback riding and of different regions of Argentina.

Late in the day I found the estancia a quite peaceful place. I walked around, petted some of the estancia’s horses and the dogs. I even watched a sunset, which I have not done in long time, and I put the swimming pool to use.

Dinner was served around 9:30 at night and I found it to be a very good Italian meal. I had a salad, Italian ravioli, dessert and choice of wine or beer. All the guests who were spending the night had dinner at the same table and we were served in one of the barns.

I slept soundly that night, climbed out of my bed early that morning to take a hike through the estancia’s fields. I enjoyed a peaceful morning at the estancia before I departed to go back to Buenos Aires.

What I discovered at Los Dos Hermanos was that I loved horseback riding. When I return to Buenos Aires I will definitely find the time to go horseback riding again.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of

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