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Sucevita: Poiana de Vis (The Dream Meadow)

Str. Poiana Lunga, Phone: 0230.417.075, 0744.776.210

Reviewed by: Doru from Canada, review #2848

When: September 2009

A wonderful host at the heart of the magical painted monasteries region in Northern Moldova

The Dream Meadow, photo by Doru

After missing the side “white road" (to use the Italian definition) because the sign was taken off at the intersection with the highway, we arrived at Pensiunea Poiana de Vis (English option for website), a large, two story house, with a beautiful façade, a sort of huge back-split that houses both the rooms being rented out and the family of the young owners, Mirela and Sorin Chiraş.

We were expected. Our friends AP and V., with whom we travelled, have been guests here before. They hug the hostess, Mirela, and we are introduced as the Canadian guests. Everybody wonders good-humouredly at how good our Romanian still is after 48 years, and then we choose the rooms.

The pension has 6 rooms, with a total capacity of 13 guests. For us, the prices are a very pleasant surprise, and we choose our rooms. By the time the luggage was dragged up the stairs (with help from the owner, staff and my friend) we were ready for a meal.

We had a meal fit for kings. All typical Romanian, and typical local. A “ciorbă” (soup) with “perişoare” (small beef and pork meatballs), a golden sour soup overflowing with boiled vegetables, with aromas of garlic and dill, and with the requisite dollops of sour cream on top, grilled rib steaks with baked potatoes and home made red pepper and cucumber pickles, a complimentary liter of house red wine, all signed off by crepes with cheese and/or home made jam, fresh spring water from the well and coffee.

On another day we had for dinner “mamaliguţă cu brânză” the Romanian version of polenta, with goat cheese (in recognition of Josette’s lactose intolerance) and butter for those who wanted it, veal cutlets “au four” with cooked green beans smothered in the inevitable sour cream, and fried pirogies (we were less than 50 km. for the border with Ukraine) covered in bilberry (a relative of the blueberry) jam. Always, the fresh spring water, the bottle of wine, the coffee at the end.

All this for 30 RON (Romanian New Leu), or circa EUR7.50 per person.

We stayed 4 nights at Poiana de Vis. The days would start with a wonderful, fresh and plentiful breakfast (10 RON per person) and would end with dinner at the pension. For lunch we would decide depending on where we happened to be, but all that was needed to have such kingly feasts ready on arrival was a telephone call with a couple of hours notice.

The room we selected had a large queen-size equivalent bed and an additional double, both with excellent mattresses, a gleaming bathroom with shower, plenty of towels. The shower was a bit “different” in that it had no curtain or enclosure, and so some wiping of the marble floors was necessary. Towel heaters were wonderful to have as we were in a region of hills and sub-mountain, and the evening at the end of September could be cold.

In the evening there is no social life in Suceviţa. We would organise a game of cards, have a few drinks of “pălincă”, a Romanian most wicked version of grappa that V., thoughtful as always, has made sure it was well protected in the car’s trunk, and made plans for the next day.

Mirela Chiraş, the owner, was always available for whatever guests would require. The place was spotless in every respect, and from this location we had easy drive access to all major monasteries and historical sites.

This review is the opinion of a Slow Travel member and not of slowtrav.com.

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